Germany and Austria - December 2024

Munich 

What can you say about the Hofbrauhaus? It’s a must even though it is filled with annoying tourists and HUGE beers. I went for the Raddler half beer and half lemonade (which is perfect because I am half German and half Italian) and there was no way I would ever make it through a liter of beer. Luckily we were seated with some Brits and they had no problems imbibing in several if not too many. Fun times and we had a little parade of Krampus come through the beer hall.

It’s a spaceship vacation home, by Finnish architect Matti Suuronen. The Futuro House was designed in the 1960’s and originally produces about 100 of them. They were made of fiberglass and plastic prefabricated, cheap and stylish. It was ahead of its time. I love it. This one stands out side of the Pinakothek deer Moderne in Munich. Sadly it wasn’t open for viewing the day we were there. 

We rode the train from Munich to Dachau town and then a bus to the Memorial Site. It was dreary and raining and we tried to imagine that people arriving by train then had to make the long walk from the train to the Concentration camp. There was a museum in one of the buildings and we could walk on the grounds and see a rebuilt replica of the housing situation. There are no words. 

We lost Swede while we were in Vienna so our time here was not only surreal but also filled with sadness. It was Cafe Ritter that was a saving grace and it warmed our spirits for a bit and filled our bellies. It was a tiny bit worn down just like us but it shimmered in the holiday lights and gave us excellent service and a wonderful traditional Austrian meal. We were lucky to stumble upon it. It was quiet and cozy and you could just imaging all the conversations that had taken place here amongst its patrons. 

Next stop Prague.

The Krampus Run Salzburg Austria

I saw it on YouTube and thought hey why it head to Salzburg in 2024 for the Krampus Run? It was the impetus of the trip and we threw all caution of cold weather and winter to the backs of our memories. It’s an easy thing to do amidst beautiful late summer and early fall midwestern weather. The dread of winter will be upon us soon and we need an adventure plan.

It was freaking cold on December 5th for the Krampus Run. There were crowds and no amount of mulled wine is going to make by travel companion happy. The Krampus come through on a route and it was impossible to see. This was the entire reason I was here! I decided to give up and as we were heading back in the direction of where we can get on the public transport, the “heavens” opened u and the krewes just kept on coming. I even got whipped on my legs by this guy! Yes, It hurt and apparently I was bad this past year to deserve such a lashing. 

More adventure awaits in Vienna, Prague and Munich. Stay tuned.

Plaza de Tres Culturas - México City

The Plaza de Las Tres Culturas is the main square of the Tlatelcolco neighborhood of Mexico City. The name signifies three periods in Mexican history, pre-Columbian, Spanish colonial era and the independent nation. The square was completed in 1966 and is flanked by the Tlatelcolco ruins, a 1960's housing complex, the collage of Santa Cruz de Tlatelcolco and a church built from Tlatelcolco Temple stones.

On October 2, 1968, Mexican Armed Forces opened fire on a group of unarmed civilians on the plaza who were protesting the upcoming 1968 Summer Olympics. The Mexican government and media claimed that the Armed Forces had been provoked by protesters shooting at them, but government documents made public since 2000 suggest that snipers had been employed by the government. 

Twenty five people were officially reported dead. Later investigations identified 44 remains. Eyewitnesses claim that over 300 bodies were carted away from the square. The real death toll remains a mystery. 

 Colonial-era, Baroque Catholic Church, 

Plaza de Las Tres Culturas

Monument to the Tlatelolco 1968 massacre,

Plaza de Las Tres Culturas

Tlatelcolco ruins, a colonial era Catholic church and 

a modern housing complex, Plaza de Las Tres Culturas

Read more here: What really happened? Mexico 1968 Massacre

Our Lady of Guadalupe Mexico City

Our Lady of Guadalupe

To say that Mexicans love Our Lady of Guadalupe would be an understatement. For devout Catholics and the holiday Catholics, in Mexico, Guadalupe holds a special appeal. To the poor, Guadalupe is a symbol of standing against oppression and a common sight in most communities in Mexico. There are shrines to her almost everywhere. 

As the story goes, Juan Diego was indigenous, to Mexico. He is described as a Chichimec peasant and one of the first indigenous people to convert to Christianity. It is believed that he was visited by the Virgin Mary at Tepeyac Hill on four occasions in 1531, when Mexican territories were under Spanish rule. The Virgin Mary requested a chapel be built in her honor. At first he wasn't believed but was able to summon up some proof when the Virgin Mary miraculously imprinted her image on his cloak on one of the visitations. Who doesn't love a miracle!

Capilla de Indios (Indian Chapel) 

The original shrine for the Virgin of Guadalupe sits atop Tepeyac Hill with vast views over Mexico City.

Templo Expiatorio a Critsto Rey 

(Old Basilica of Guadalupe) 

Templo Expiatorio a Critsto Rey, the old Basilica sits at the foot of Tepeyac Hill below the original shrine. The old structure is sinking and was not able to handle the amount of visitors that come from around the world and allows a limited number of visitors to enter. 

Basilica de Guadalupe (modern Basilica) 

The modern Basilica de Guadalupe was built 1974-1976 and is circular so that the image of the Virgin can be seen from any point in the building. The structure can accommodate up to 10.000 people and the doors open wide to the plaza to accommodate larger crowds. The modern Basilica sits to the west of the old Basilica and to the south of the chapel up on Tepeyac hill. It was built to allow greater access to visitors as the old Temple was unstable. Over 20,000 million people visit each year.

Basilica de Guadalupe - door detail

Guadalupe, the Basilica de Guadalupe, Mexico City 

Visitors can view the painting for only a short time by passing by on a conveyor belt which is situated behind the alter. It allows people to view even when a service is going on. There are no vendors on the holy site but of course there is a store adjacent to the plaza where you can buy statues and trinkets to be blessed at an outdoor blessing station by a priest prior to the viewing of the painting of Guadalupe. 

Read more here: Our Lady of Guadalupe

 

Teotihuacan Piramides

The pre-Hispanic City of Teotihuacan was the largest urban center of Mesoamerica and predated the Aztecs by a 1000 years. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were extremely lucky that the usually blistering sun was obscured by cloud cover, as there were few spots for a shady rest. Our guide provided us with historically significant information and then time to roam around on our own.

It is the site of very significant Mesoamerican pyramids. The complex is vast and was once a vibrant pre-Columbian city. In the middle is the Avenue of the Dead which links the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, the Pyramid of the Moon and the Pyramid of the Sun. Since 2020 you are no longer allowed to climb to the summits.

Pyramid of the Sun, Teotihuacan

Pyramid of the Moon, Teotihuacan

Avenue of the Dead, Teotihuacan

read more here: Pre-Hispanic City of Teotihuacan