The Krampus Run Salzburg Austria

I saw it on YouTube and thought hey why it head to Salzburg in 2024 for the Krampus Run? It was the impetus of the trip and we threw all caution of cold weather and winter to the backs of our memories. It’s an easy thing to do amidst beautiful late summer and early fall midwestern weather. The dread of winter will be upon us soon and we need an adventure plan.

It was freaking cold on December 5th for the Krampus Run. There were crowds and no amount of mulled wine is going to make by travel companion happy. The Krampus come through on a route and it was impossible to see. This was the entire reason I was here! I decided to give up and as we were heading back in the direction of where we can get on the public transport, the “heavens” opened u and the krewes just kept on coming. I even got whipped on my legs by this guy! Yes, It hurt and apparently I was bad this past year to deserve such a lashing. 

More adventure awaits in Vienna, Prague and Munich. Stay tuned.

Plaza de Tres Culturas - México City

The Plaza de Las Tres Culturas is the main square of the Tlatelcolco neighborhood of Mexico City. The name signifies three periods in Mexican history, pre-Columbian, Spanish colonial era and the independent nation. The square was completed in 1966 and is flanked by the Tlatelcolco ruins, a 1960's housing complex, the collage of Santa Cruz de Tlatelcolco and a church built from Tlatelcolco Temple stones.

On October 2, 1968, Mexican Armed Forces opened fire on a group of unarmed civilians on the plaza who were protesting the upcoming 1968 Summer Olympics. The Mexican government and media claimed that the Armed Forces had been provoked by protesters shooting at them, but government documents made public since 2000 suggest that snipers had been employed by the government. 

Twenty five people were officially reported dead. Later investigations identified 44 remains. Eyewitnesses claim that over 300 bodies were carted away from the square. The real death toll remains a mystery. 

 Colonial-era, Baroque Catholic Church, 

Plaza de Las Tres Culturas

Monument to the Tlatelolco 1968 massacre,

Plaza de Las Tres Culturas

Tlatelcolco ruins, a colonial era Catholic church and 

a modern housing complex, Plaza de Las Tres Culturas

Read more here: What really happened? Mexico 1968 Massacre

Our Lady of Guadalupe Mexico City

Our Lady of Guadalupe

To say that Mexicans love Our Lady of Guadalupe would be an understatement. For devout Catholics and the holiday Catholics, in Mexico, Guadalupe holds a special appeal. To the poor, Guadalupe is a symbol of standing against oppression and a common sight in most communities in Mexico. There are shrines to her almost everywhere. 

As the story goes, Juan Diego was indigenous, to Mexico. He is described as a Chichimec peasant and one of the first indigenous people to convert to Christianity. It is believed that he was visited by the Virgin Mary at Tepeyac Hill on four occasions in 1531, when Mexican territories were under Spanish rule. The Virgin Mary requested a chapel be built in her honor. At first he wasn't believed but was able to summon up some proof when the Virgin Mary miraculously imprinted her image on his cloak on one of the visitations. Who doesn't love a miracle!

Capilla de Indios (Indian Chapel) 

The original shrine for the Virgin of Guadalupe sits atop Tepeyac Hill with vast views over Mexico City.

Templo Expiatorio a Critsto Rey 

(Old Basilica of Guadalupe) 

Templo Expiatorio a Critsto Rey, the old Basilica sits at the foot of Tepeyac Hill below the original shrine. The old structure is sinking and was not able to handle the amount of visitors that come from around the world and allows a limited number of visitors to enter. 

Basilica de Guadalupe (modern Basilica) 

The modern Basilica de Guadalupe was built 1974-1976 and is circular so that the image of the Virgin can be seen from any point in the building. The structure can accommodate up to 10.000 people and the doors open wide to the plaza to accommodate larger crowds. The modern Basilica sits to the west of the old Basilica and to the south of the chapel up on Tepeyac hill. It was built to allow greater access to visitors as the old Temple was unstable. Over 20,000 million people visit each year.

Basilica de Guadalupe - door detail

Guadalupe, the Basilica de Guadalupe, Mexico City 

Visitors can view the painting for only a short time by passing by on a conveyor belt which is situated behind the alter. It allows people to view even when a service is going on. There are no vendors on the holy site but of course there is a store adjacent to the plaza where you can buy statues and trinkets to be blessed at an outdoor blessing station by a priest prior to the viewing of the painting of Guadalupe. 

Read more here: Our Lady of Guadalupe

 

Teotihuacan Piramides

The pre-Hispanic City of Teotihuacan was the largest urban center of Mesoamerica and predated the Aztecs by a 1000 years. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were extremely lucky that the usually blistering sun was obscured by cloud cover, as there were few spots for a shady rest. Our guide provided us with historically significant information and then time to roam around on our own.

It is the site of very significant Mesoamerican pyramids. The complex is vast and was once a vibrant pre-Columbian city. In the middle is the Avenue of the Dead which links the Temple of Quetzalcoatl, the Pyramid of the Moon and the Pyramid of the Sun. Since 2020 you are no longer allowed to climb to the summits.

Pyramid of the Sun, Teotihuacan

Pyramid of the Moon, Teotihuacan

Avenue of the Dead, Teotihuacan

read more here: Pre-Hispanic City of Teotihuacan

Siempre Cambiando

It's been a long few years and lots of crazy stuff has happened. We cannot begin to express the amount of gratitude we have to be able to travel again and return to some of the places we love. This bustling small city continues to grow and change before our very eyes. I say that each time we come here because it is true. This time it has been 4 long years since we have been here. Many of our favorite and familiar places are gone, replaced by new places that will probably be gone the next time we return. The juice man is gone, the corner market where we used to buy eggs, avocado and fruit is no longer there. Our favorite antojitos restaurant is no longer run by the same family. The tourist zone is creeping closer. It goes on and on and is filled with restaurants, bars, countless shops and hordes of tourists. It is almost possible to ignore it simply by walking different streets.

Countless apartment buildings are being built where homes for locals once sat. The new buildings are pushing the locals farther and farther from the central area. We no longer hear the colectivo man shouting as they have moved to a new location. We still find a few local cart or cargo king vendors with their bell or horn announcing they are on your street. Once in a while a car goes by with a megaphone announcing something. There is more traffic and more noise but here on the top floor patio or in the garden we can almost forget.

During the day the sun blazes hot overhead. If I sleep too late I miss my chance to have my morning coffee in the shade. In the small houses nestled behind our building dogs bark. We visit with other guests and talk about Mexico City or other places to feed our travel dreams. I go to Yin class at a yoga school twice a week. I zoom my regular yoga class once a week. Afternoons are spent at la playa. It is more crowded than we remember but we find a little spot, open our beach chairs and contemplate the waves.

In the evening, the sun lowers in the horizon and the night breeze is simply perfect. It is one of my favorite times of the day and I am always thankful. It’s the time of day the birds fly over head to roost in the trees nearby just before sunset. The evening breeze kicks in and the clouds move past. We have our evening comida on la terazza or at one of our nearby favorite restaurants. We steal time to chat with our friends that own the hotel where we stay and visit in the garden. We walk to the park when there is music and a market. We watch children playing and family time enjoyed by locals and visitors.

We will miss the beautiful water, the fresh sea air breezes, our friends and the ever changing neighborhood but we know we will return. We feel at home here and it has stolen a part of our hearts for too long. Hasta la proxima vex.

Somewhere Between Living and Dreaming

La Playa Caribbean, acrylic on canvas 18" x 24" - B.Steichen

Somewhere between living and dreaming, there is Mexico and it has been way too long since I have been here. I are not traveling around this time, just staying at our home away from home. I am dredged in a familiarity of simple routines, a walk, a shared meal on the patio, many memories from the past and the beautiful beautiful playa. I do as little or as much as I want here. It is a contemplative reset.  

La Playa is forever shimmering in countless shades of turquoise. The sun is warm upon our shoulders and the air is humid and sweet. Unending waves merging one into the next. Turquoise is my favorite color, the color of the Caribbean Sea. It is the color I see when I close my eyes. It is my conjured memory for meditation. It is pure magic.

On the patio outside our room, everyone is happy to have escaped from wherever they came from. They are happy, full of stories and laughter. The days perfectly blend one into the other. I revel in all that is my life, the work I have done to be able to be in this moment. I have so much gratitude for every second of it. I try not to count the time that turns weeks into days before I return home to get ready for the next adventure.

Every day is a journey and the journey itself is home. - Matsuo Basho

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The Boneyard - Where the Memories Live

Tree of Life

What a strange and wonderful time on the road this past winter with visits to many beautiful and amazing sights, all juxtaposed to the loss of some very memorable and special people. We returned home from travels 6 weeks early to be in the “safety” of our own home. At the end of May we experienced civil unrest here in Minneapolis, resulting in the destruction of our neighborhood businesses. The unrest was triggered by the trauma of another senseless murder of a black man by the hands of men sworn to protect and serve. It appears that some days there is a lot to mourn, lost adventures, friends and connections. There is too much introspection and too much uncertainty. The emotions come in waves. We hope it all balances out. 

I have only seen a small smattering of friends since November due to our winter travels. The Covid-19 has isolated us even more. It’s been a big uncertain and disturbing blur since we returned. I have had plenty of time to think, write, paint, garden, read, dream and hope. As I struggle to weave these little stories of life and loss together, I have repeatedly hesitated to publish this writing because it is so lovingly personal. To publish, seems like the final goodbye, it makes it all painstakingly real, but it had to be written. It had to get thrown out there with all the other little stories. All of our tears are real! 

Riley Burns - Boat Captain, World Traveler

Riley Burns

Riley died in January, when we were on the road trying to escape winter. We found out while staying in a dreary hotel room just outside of San Antonio. We were on our way to Big Bend National Park. 

This was never going to end well. We all knew that. Riley uprooted himself from Alaska and returned to rural Minnesota to be treated at the Mayo Clinic. He could not have had a better care team but the odds were completely stacked against him. We spent time together, met the care team, shared meals and checked in with his siblings. It was some kind of a crazy balance of hope vs prognosis. When it came time to leave for winter, Riley wanted us to go. He was so very brave. His public persona during all this strife will always amaze me. 

After he passed, I would wake up in the middle of the night trying to remember what he looked like when he was healthy. I wanted to know if he knew how his illness infected our hearts. I wondered if he knew how scared we were for him as we tried to comfort him and understand the pain. I know he is released from all that now but I mourn the lost adventures he will never have, that little bit of hope he had to return to his home in Alaska. I mourn for the friendship that is no longer there. 

The brightest star followed us on our westward travels and I like to think that it was telling us that he was OK. We carried our memories and told stories all across Texas. Riley would have loved every gorgeous bit of scenery and every rugged mile. The Big Bend National Park helped our spirits. Riley would have loved it there, big and expansive like Alaska.

R.I.P. Riley Burns, July 3, 1965 - January 13, 2020. We miss you. 

David Bradley - Imagination is Everything

David Bradley

David died on February 16, while we were on the road in Arizona. Social media is odd that way. We find out of a person’s passing and get to read all the shared stories, all while watching a beautiful sunset among the Whetstone Mountains in South Eastern Arizona.  I know David was a “city” guy but as a photographer he would have absolutely fallen in love with the changing light. 

He was the first person I met right after I retired in 2013. We met at Jazz Fest in St. Paul and ran into each other again on the following days for more Jazz Festival events. He was kind with such a beautiful and infectious bright smile. I said something about having just retired and feeling guilty for no longer having to work. He reminded me rather sternly that I deserved the benefits of retirement and that I had indeed worked and sacrificed for every penny that comes to me each month. He probably never knew how his words stuck with me. He was right and I have carried those words with me on through this Third Act of my life.

We shared a love for jazz and his photographs of musicians were amazing. I admired his frankness and honesty about his struggles with PTSD from his service in Vietnam. I think it taught people and reminded them to never forget the sacrifice of those that served our country. We never actually saw each other again but we shared a few stories occasionally about music or traveling, corresponding via email or Facebook. We checked in on each other casually from time to time. I am sorry that David did not get to enjoy more days but I am happy he is no longer struggling. He deserved more, that I know. 

 R.I.P David Bradley, June 10, 1950 - February 16, 2020

Terry Dupuy - Laissez les bons temps rouler

Terry DuPuy

We met Terry quite by accident in 2015 in St. Martinsville, Louisiana while eating lunch at a restaurant near his old sound studio. Terry and Lyle bear a resemblance and we joked about them being twins or cousins. We occasionally over the years made contact via social media chatting mostly about cooking or music. While planning our winter travels last fall, we asked Terry if he would like to visit with us when we passed through on our way to New Orleans. He was excited about it so we made a plan for early and stopped in Marksville in early December. We visited for two days, stayed at a nearby RV camp, met his son, shared dinner, walked around town, attended the tree lighting ceremony and told stories. It gave us a little chance to get to know each other. 

We are extremely grateful for his hospitality and it seemed like we all had a good time. We brought them home canned goods from our family garden, a very mid-western thing. I am a painter and had made Terry a small abstract painting of a Louisiana cypress grove, which he immediately put up on the wall. Terry told stories. We listened. Terry seemed to have a great attitude of just letting things roll. He was excited that we were there and took us around town to meet people and see this slice of Americana.  We had no idea of the turmoil or strife they were experiencing alone and together.

In mid April, we heard of the deaths of Terry and his son Eden via social media. We thought that perhaps they had been in an accident driving somewhere for the Easter holiday.  Within a day or two we found out that Terry was murdered by his son, Eden who then in-turn took his own life. The intimate details will remain unknown to us.Terry was my go to guy to call for making the Gumbo and I know that forever, red beans and rice will never be the same.

R.I.P Terry Dupuy, August 26, 1969 - April 12, 2020 

" Perhaps they are not stars, but rather openings in heaven where the love of our lost ones pour through and shines down upon us to let us know they are happy."

- Eskimo Proverb

California Teaser - March 2020

Joshua Tree has always been special and we have visited here once before. This time we booked into Jumbo Rocks, one of the campgrounds located in the park and it was a much more joyful experience. We were able to hike the Cholla Cactus Garden Loop and also the Skull Rock Loop. We drove by the Oasis of Mara which didn't look any better than when we saw it two years ago shortly after the arson fire.

Cholla Cactus Garden - Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree National Park

We have lights we use to keep the pack rats out of our engine area but one night while here we woke up to something snooping around under our hood. I stayed in the van due to my unlove of anything rodent and Lyle was hoping to lure it out of there by shining a bright flashlight in it's eyes and swearing at it. Nothing seemed to work so we started the engine and drove out of the camp and down the road at 4am. It either got away or died. Either scenario worked for me.

Jumbo Rocks Campground, Joshua Tree

Heading our of Joshua Tree National Park we passed through the town of Borego Springs. We were there before but it was so crowded with people trying to see the super-bloom of 2019 that we didn't stop. On this day it was a sleepy little town that was just hanging a very well curated plein art landscape show. Lots of inspiration there. We spent the night at Tamarisk Grove Campground. This place has an interesting history. It was a San Diego County prison camp which built roads in this once remote area.

Tamarisk Grove

We left there and headed to the Agua Caleiente County Park which is one of San Diego's regional parks. This place has three geothermal pools with the warmest one housed indoors. This is however what is considered a family park. It was by far the noisiest park we have been to, filled with families and children. In addition there was a Winnebago Travato club gathering which also contributed to the noise factor. A couple of Travato owners stopped by because our van is also a Ram Promaster and they were more than curious to see a custom build and compare it to their manufactured RV with the very hefty price tag.

After two days we are headed to San Diego its and easy drive, about 100 miles to the park that was to be our "home" for the next 21 days.  During our first week, it rained 4 out of 6 days. As news started to creep in regarding the pandemic we could see stress levels rising and it was then that we realized people were starting to horde food. We spent the weekend not really going anywhere and looking at what our options could be. We made the decision to return all the way back home to Minneapolis. We felt is was safer for us to ride this out in our own home instead traveling for 6 more weeks in a van with an unsure calendar of booked lodgings scattered in California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado.

We drove 2170 miles home over the next 4 days, eating our own food, loading up on non perishable foods, sleeping in rest stops and a small motel in Des Moines on our last night. On the day we returned home the camp we had been staying at in San Diego closed and evicted all the campers. Since that time many of the other places we had scheduled to visit either closed or remained open with no services. We made the right choice to return home. We are thankful for all the businesses that kindly relaxed their cancellation policies for reservations and refunded our money.

We are most definitely missing our view to the west. Missing sunsets and adventures. We are disappointed that our travels ended somewhat abruptly. It was definitely a California teaser. We missed our last two weeks in Sand Diego and our time scheduled for Death Valley National Park.

In addition we missed out on  planned time on BLM land near Lake Mead and time scheduled for hiking at Bryce Canyon, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Utah. Lastly, we didn't get to Glenwood Springs and Denver. And so it goes...

Minneapolis is mostly gray and dreary but we made the right decision to end our travels. Spring will get here eventually. It's all humbling. For now we are safe at home which makes things a bit easier.

Wishing everyone we know, good health and happiness. Stay tuned for future adventures whenever and wherever that may be.

"The Future is unwritten." ~ Joe Strummer

Prickly Little Things - Arizona 2020

Like a Wildfire

You know you are in Arizona when you carry a pliers in your hiking pack. Don't touch anything here. There are lots of things that can hurt you or kill you. Prickly little things. Who knew there were poisonous centipedes? Who knew that desert rats want to build a nest in your engine and chew on your electrical wires? The list can go on but I am definitely having a big love affair with Arizona as it tries once again to steal my heart. All the sunshine, mountains, beautiful landscapes, wild spaces, breathtaking endless beauty and animated saguaro cactus. Almost every night an insane display of fiery sunsets and evening skies.

We really covered a lot of Arizona desert ground this time, went on some fantastic hikes and feel like we have discovered some new places. Catalina State Park is a repeat visit and we never manage to get a spot in the regular campground. We end up in the overflow but love it all the same. It's like an old wagon circle, people talk to each other and wait for the sunsets. The coyotes howl at night. It's just on the north edge of the Tucson city limits near the Oro Valley at the base of the Catalina Mountains.

Just a quick drive north to Oracle, Arizona is the Triangle L Ranch. It is by far my favorite art park anywhere. It is ever changing and the people that live and work there are as friendly as can be. It's a beautiful place to stroll around. It's only open on Saturdays and for special events but they have a sweet little bed and breakfast there so if you stay there you can walk around anytime you want.

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

We stayed at several other Arizona State parks. The parks are all great and seriously well managed. If you  don't mind sitting still, you will have what you need. We quickly realized here at Picacho Peak State Park that we needed to rearrange our itinerary and shortened our stay. This park was nestled between the peak and an interstate, not exactly comforting and there was no where to go. We did have one chilly afternoon in the little amphitheater with a singing cowboy and that was a pretty awesome but cold hour.

We also shortened our stay at Kartchner Caverns, visiting both Bisbee (again), Tombstone (again) and we went on a tour of the Karchner Cavern. They have a great visitor center and knowledgable docents. It has a pretty good story about the discovery of the caverns.

"Hoping to protect the cave from vandalism,  they kept the location a secret for fourteen years, deciding that the best way to preserve the cavern" ...
-- Read more about the discovery of the Caverns here: Katchner Caverns

The nearby mountain hid the sunsets here but the reflective light to the east was absolutely amazing.

Kartchner Caverns State Park

Kartchner Caverns State Park

We visited Organ Pipe National Monument two different times while in Arizona and I loved it so much I wrote a separate blog post all about our time there.
-- Read that post here: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

We had more Tucson time while staying at Gilbert Ray just west of the city. What a great place to be. It is just down the road from the Old Tucson Studios which is an old western movie set turned gentle theme park. We heard cowboy stories, took in a can can show and watched a comedic stunt actor show. Then we ran into people we had met at a previous camp and witnessed the daily shoot out together. We spent the good part of a day there and it was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. So many westerns were filmed there so if you are a western film buff you will really like it. Even if you aren't it's amusing and fun.

Bath House at Old Tucson Studios

Me and the Guys at Old Tucson Studios

Gilbert Ray is adjacent to Saguaro National Park (west) which is for sure one of my favorite places on earth. It was here that we made a wrong turn one night and realized we were driving on the perfect alien abduction road. I am sure I would be a great location scout for the movies, if of course I had any interest in working. We drove the Bajada Loop Drive at the west park and on another day drove over Gates Pass and to the other side of Tucson to drive the Cactus Forest Drive at the Saguaro National Park (east park).

Perfect Alien Abduction Road (at night)

Gilbert Ray Pima County 

Our last stop in Arizona was to visit friends in Scottsdale, We took a lovely walk at Papago Park the surreal oasis and spent a few days near Apache Junction in the Superstition Mountains.

Papago Park, Scottsdale

Superstition Mountains, Apache Junction

"Then the wind blew cool through the pinyons on the rim. There was a sweet tang of cedar and sage on the air and that indefinable fragrance peculiar to the canyon country of Arizona."  ~Zane Grey

Hasta la proxima vez / Until next time
Adios Arizona

Next Stop: Joshua Tree