Prague, Czech Republic

I was first in Prague in 2008 and it was magical. The stunning architecture and picturesque views day and night. I don’t think people knew about how wonderful a place this was back then and it surely was not crowded. The architecture remains absolutely amazing which is exactly why it brought us back here to see it again. Times change and apparently the rest of the world has found that Prague is one of the cheaper cities to visit in Europe. The hordes of peopled made the narrow streets of the old town so crowded that you could barely see the charm. I never imagined December would be such a busy time. It surprised me but then again I live in a bubble in a smaller midwestern city. 

We visited the sight of the Lennon wall and it had been pasted over with countless stickers..it supposed to be an ever evolving mural but I preferred it with paint and markers, as photographed in 2008. 

Then there is the infant Jesus of Prague. We visited the museum of its outfits and I’m still shaking my head as to how ridiculous this is, but it was my second time seeing it so I guess it intrigues me in an odd way. 

The Dancing House was designed by the Croatian-Czech architect Vlado Milunid in cooperation with Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry on a vacant riverfront plot. It's beautiful and insanely modern against the backdrop of all the historic buildings in Prague. 

Where to next? Mexico of course!

Germany and Austria - December 2024

Munich 

What can you say about the Hofbrauhaus? It’s a must even though it is filled with annoying tourists and HUGE beers. I went for the Raddler half beer and half lemonade (which is perfect because I am half German and half Italian) and there was no way I would ever make it through a liter of beer. Luckily we were seated with some Brits and they had no problems imbibing in several if not too many. Fun times and we had a little parade of Krampus come through the beer hall.

It’s a spaceship vacation home, by Finnish architect Matti Suuronen. The Futuro House was designed in the 1960’s and originally produces about 100 of them. They were made of fiberglass and plastic prefabricated, cheap and stylish. It was ahead of its time. I love it. This one stands out side of the Pinakothek deer Moderne in Munich. Sadly it wasn’t open for viewing the day we were there. 

We rode the train from Munich to Dachau town and then a bus to the Memorial Site. It was dreary and raining and we tried to imagine that people arriving by train then had to make the long walk from the train to the Concentration camp. There was a museum in one of the buildings and we could walk on the grounds and see a rebuilt replica of the housing situation. There are no words. 

We lost Swede while we were in Vienna so our time here was not only surreal but also filled with sadness. It was Cafe Ritter that was a saving grace and it warmed our spirits for a bit and filled our bellies. It was a tiny bit worn down just like us but it shimmered in the holiday lights and gave us excellent service and a wonderful traditional Austrian meal. We were lucky to stumble upon it. It was quiet and cozy and you could just imaging all the conversations that had taken place here amongst its patrons. 

Next stop Prague.

The Krampus Run Salzburg Austria

I saw it on YouTube and thought hey why it head to Salzburg in 2024 for the Krampus Run? It was the impetus of the trip and we threw all caution of cold weather and winter to the backs of our memories. It’s an easy thing to do amidst beautiful late summer and early fall midwestern weather. The dread of winter will be upon us soon and we need an adventure plan.

It was freaking cold on December 5th for the Krampus Run. There were crowds and no amount of mulled wine is going to make by travel companion happy. The Krampus come through on a route and it was impossible to see. This was the entire reason I was here! I decided to give up and as we were heading back in the direction of where we can get on the public transport, the “heavens” opened u and the krewes just kept on coming. I even got whipped on my legs by this guy! Yes, It hurt and apparently I was bad this past year to deserve such a lashing. 

More adventure awaits in Vienna, Prague and Munich. Stay tuned.

Siempre Cambiando

It's been a long few years and lots of crazy stuff has happened. We cannot begin to express the amount of gratitude we have to be able to travel again and return to some of the places we love. This bustling small city continues to grow and change before our very eyes. I say that each time we come here because it is true. This time it has been 4 long years since we have been here. Many of our favorite and familiar places are gone, replaced by new places that will probably be gone the next time we return. The juice man is gone, the corner market where we used to buy eggs, avocado and fruit is no longer there. Our favorite antojitos restaurant is no longer run by the same family. The tourist zone is creeping closer. It goes on and on and is filled with restaurants, bars, countless shops and hordes of tourists. It is almost possible to ignore it simply by walking different streets.

Countless apartment buildings are being built where homes for locals once sat. The new buildings are pushing the locals farther and farther from the central area. We no longer hear the colectivo man shouting as they have moved to a new location. We still find a few local cart or cargo king vendors with their bell or horn announcing they are on your street. Once in a while a car goes by with a megaphone announcing something. There is more traffic and more noise but here on the top floor patio or in the garden we can almost forget.

During the day the sun blazes hot overhead. If I sleep too late I miss my chance to have my morning coffee in the shade. In the small houses nestled behind our building dogs bark. We visit with other guests and talk about Mexico City or other places to feed our travel dreams. I go to Yin class at a yoga school twice a week. I zoom my regular yoga class once a week. Afternoons are spent at la playa. It is more crowded than we remember but we find a little spot, open our beach chairs and contemplate the waves.

In the evening, the sun lowers in the horizon and the night breeze is simply perfect. It is one of my favorite times of the day and I am always thankful. It’s the time of day the birds fly over head to roost in the trees nearby just before sunset. The evening breeze kicks in and the clouds move past. We have our evening comida on la terazza or at one of our nearby favorite restaurants. We steal time to chat with our friends that own the hotel where we stay and visit in the garden. We walk to the park when there is music and a market. We watch children playing and family time enjoyed by locals and visitors.

We will miss the beautiful water, the fresh sea air breezes, our friends and the ever changing neighborhood but we know we will return. We feel at home here and it has stolen a part of our hearts for too long. Hasta la proxima vex.

The Boneyard - Where the Memories Live

Tree of Life

What a strange and wonderful time on the road this past winter with visits to many beautiful and amazing sights, all juxtaposed to the loss of some very memorable and special people. We returned home from travels 6 weeks early to be in the “safety” of our own home. At the end of May we experienced civil unrest here in Minneapolis, resulting in the destruction of our neighborhood businesses. The unrest was triggered by the trauma of another senseless murder of a black man by the hands of men sworn to protect and serve. It appears that some days there is a lot to mourn, lost adventures, friends and connections. There is too much introspection and too much uncertainty. The emotions come in waves. We hope it all balances out. 

I have only seen a small smattering of friends since November due to our winter travels. The Covid-19 has isolated us even more. It’s been a big uncertain and disturbing blur since we returned. I have had plenty of time to think, write, paint, garden, read, dream and hope. As I struggle to weave these little stories of life and loss together, I have repeatedly hesitated to publish this writing because it is so lovingly personal. To publish, seems like the final goodbye, it makes it all painstakingly real, but it had to be written. It had to get thrown out there with all the other little stories. All of our tears are real! 

Riley Burns - Boat Captain, World Traveler

Riley Burns

Riley died in January, when we were on the road trying to escape winter. We found out while staying in a dreary hotel room just outside of San Antonio. We were on our way to Big Bend National Park. 

This was never going to end well. We all knew that. Riley uprooted himself from Alaska and returned to rural Minnesota to be treated at the Mayo Clinic. He could not have had a better care team but the odds were completely stacked against him. We spent time together, met the care team, shared meals and checked in with his siblings. It was some kind of a crazy balance of hope vs prognosis. When it came time to leave for winter, Riley wanted us to go. He was so very brave. His public persona during all this strife will always amaze me. 

After he passed, I would wake up in the middle of the night trying to remember what he looked like when he was healthy. I wanted to know if he knew how his illness infected our hearts. I wondered if he knew how scared we were for him as we tried to comfort him and understand the pain. I know he is released from all that now but I mourn the lost adventures he will never have, that little bit of hope he had to return to his home in Alaska. I mourn for the friendship that is no longer there. 

The brightest star followed us on our westward travels and I like to think that it was telling us that he was OK. We carried our memories and told stories all across Texas. Riley would have loved every gorgeous bit of scenery and every rugged mile. The Big Bend National Park helped our spirits. Riley would have loved it there, big and expansive like Alaska.

R.I.P. Riley Burns, July 3, 1965 - January 13, 2020. We miss you. 

David Bradley - Imagination is Everything

David Bradley

David died on February 16, while we were on the road in Arizona. Social media is odd that way. We find out of a person’s passing and get to read all the shared stories, all while watching a beautiful sunset among the Whetstone Mountains in South Eastern Arizona.  I know David was a “city” guy but as a photographer he would have absolutely fallen in love with the changing light. 

He was the first person I met right after I retired in 2013. We met at Jazz Fest in St. Paul and ran into each other again on the following days for more Jazz Festival events. He was kind with such a beautiful and infectious bright smile. I said something about having just retired and feeling guilty for no longer having to work. He reminded me rather sternly that I deserved the benefits of retirement and that I had indeed worked and sacrificed for every penny that comes to me each month. He probably never knew how his words stuck with me. He was right and I have carried those words with me on through this Third Act of my life.

We shared a love for jazz and his photographs of musicians were amazing. I admired his frankness and honesty about his struggles with PTSD from his service in Vietnam. I think it taught people and reminded them to never forget the sacrifice of those that served our country. We never actually saw each other again but we shared a few stories occasionally about music or traveling, corresponding via email or Facebook. We checked in on each other casually from time to time. I am sorry that David did not get to enjoy more days but I am happy he is no longer struggling. He deserved more, that I know. 

 R.I.P David Bradley, June 10, 1950 - February 16, 2020

Terry Dupuy - Laissez les bons temps rouler

Terry DuPuy

We met Terry quite by accident in 2015 in St. Martinsville, Louisiana while eating lunch at a restaurant near his old sound studio. Terry and Lyle bear a resemblance and we joked about them being twins or cousins. We occasionally over the years made contact via social media chatting mostly about cooking or music. While planning our winter travels last fall, we asked Terry if he would like to visit with us when we passed through on our way to New Orleans. He was excited about it so we made a plan for early and stopped in Marksville in early December. We visited for two days, stayed at a nearby RV camp, met his son, shared dinner, walked around town, attended the tree lighting ceremony and told stories. It gave us a little chance to get to know each other. 

We are extremely grateful for his hospitality and it seemed like we all had a good time. We brought them home canned goods from our family garden, a very mid-western thing. I am a painter and had made Terry a small abstract painting of a Louisiana cypress grove, which he immediately put up on the wall. Terry told stories. We listened. Terry seemed to have a great attitude of just letting things roll. He was excited that we were there and took us around town to meet people and see this slice of Americana.  We had no idea of the turmoil or strife they were experiencing alone and together.

In mid April, we heard of the deaths of Terry and his son Eden via social media. We thought that perhaps they had been in an accident driving somewhere for the Easter holiday.  Within a day or two we found out that Terry was murdered by his son, Eden who then in-turn took his own life. The intimate details will remain unknown to us.Terry was my go to guy to call for making the Gumbo and I know that forever, red beans and rice will never be the same.

R.I.P Terry Dupuy, August 26, 1969 - April 12, 2020 

" Perhaps they are not stars, but rather openings in heaven where the love of our lost ones pour through and shines down upon us to let us know they are happy."

- Eskimo Proverb

California Teaser - March 2020

Joshua Tree has always been special and we have visited here once before. This time we booked into Jumbo Rocks, one of the campgrounds located in the park and it was a much more joyful experience. We were able to hike the Cholla Cactus Garden Loop and also the Skull Rock Loop. We drove by the Oasis of Mara which didn't look any better than when we saw it two years ago shortly after the arson fire.

Cholla Cactus Garden - Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree National Park

We have lights we use to keep the pack rats out of our engine area but one night while here we woke up to something snooping around under our hood. I stayed in the van due to my unlove of anything rodent and Lyle was hoping to lure it out of there by shining a bright flashlight in it's eyes and swearing at it. Nothing seemed to work so we started the engine and drove out of the camp and down the road at 4am. It either got away or died. Either scenario worked for me.

Jumbo Rocks Campground, Joshua Tree

Heading our of Joshua Tree National Park we passed through the town of Borego Springs. We were there before but it was so crowded with people trying to see the super-bloom of 2019 that we didn't stop. On this day it was a sleepy little town that was just hanging a very well curated plein art landscape show. Lots of inspiration there. We spent the night at Tamarisk Grove Campground. This place has an interesting history. It was a San Diego County prison camp which built roads in this once remote area.

Tamarisk Grove

We left there and headed to the Agua Caleiente County Park which is one of San Diego's regional parks. This place has three geothermal pools with the warmest one housed indoors. This is however what is considered a family park. It was by far the noisiest park we have been to, filled with families and children. In addition there was a Winnebago Travato club gathering which also contributed to the noise factor. A couple of Travato owners stopped by because our van is also a Ram Promaster and they were more than curious to see a custom build and compare it to their manufactured RV with the very hefty price tag.

After two days we are headed to San Diego its and easy drive, about 100 miles to the park that was to be our "home" for the next 21 days.  During our first week, it rained 4 out of 6 days. As news started to creep in regarding the pandemic we could see stress levels rising and it was then that we realized people were starting to horde food. We spent the weekend not really going anywhere and looking at what our options could be. We made the decision to return all the way back home to Minneapolis. We felt is was safer for us to ride this out in our own home instead traveling for 6 more weeks in a van with an unsure calendar of booked lodgings scattered in California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado.

We drove 2170 miles home over the next 4 days, eating our own food, loading up on non perishable foods, sleeping in rest stops and a small motel in Des Moines on our last night. On the day we returned home the camp we had been staying at in San Diego closed and evicted all the campers. Since that time many of the other places we had scheduled to visit either closed or remained open with no services. We made the right choice to return home. We are thankful for all the businesses that kindly relaxed their cancellation policies for reservations and refunded our money.

We are most definitely missing our view to the west. Missing sunsets and adventures. We are disappointed that our travels ended somewhat abruptly. It was definitely a California teaser. We missed our last two weeks in Sand Diego and our time scheduled for Death Valley National Park.

In addition we missed out on  planned time on BLM land near Lake Mead and time scheduled for hiking at Bryce Canyon, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Utah. Lastly, we didn't get to Glenwood Springs and Denver. And so it goes...

Minneapolis is mostly gray and dreary but we made the right decision to end our travels. Spring will get here eventually. It's all humbling. For now we are safe at home which makes things a bit easier.

Wishing everyone we know, good health and happiness. Stay tuned for future adventures whenever and wherever that may be.

"The Future is unwritten." ~ Joe Strummer

Prickly Little Things - Arizona 2020

Like a Wildfire

You know you are in Arizona when you carry a pliers in your hiking pack. Don't touch anything here. There are lots of things that can hurt you or kill you. Prickly little things. Who knew there were poisonous centipedes? Who knew that desert rats want to build a nest in your engine and chew on your electrical wires? The list can go on but I am definitely having a big love affair with Arizona as it tries once again to steal my heart. All the sunshine, mountains, beautiful landscapes, wild spaces, breathtaking endless beauty and animated saguaro cactus. Almost every night an insane display of fiery sunsets and evening skies.

We really covered a lot of Arizona desert ground this time, went on some fantastic hikes and feel like we have discovered some new places. Catalina State Park is a repeat visit and we never manage to get a spot in the regular campground. We end up in the overflow but love it all the same. It's like an old wagon circle, people talk to each other and wait for the sunsets. The coyotes howl at night. It's just on the north edge of the Tucson city limits near the Oro Valley at the base of the Catalina Mountains.

Just a quick drive north to Oracle, Arizona is the Triangle L Ranch. It is by far my favorite art park anywhere. It is ever changing and the people that live and work there are as friendly as can be. It's a beautiful place to stroll around. It's only open on Saturdays and for special events but they have a sweet little bed and breakfast there so if you stay there you can walk around anytime you want.

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

We stayed at several other Arizona State parks. The parks are all great and seriously well managed. If you  don't mind sitting still, you will have what you need. We quickly realized here at Picacho Peak State Park that we needed to rearrange our itinerary and shortened our stay. This park was nestled between the peak and an interstate, not exactly comforting and there was no where to go. We did have one chilly afternoon in the little amphitheater with a singing cowboy and that was a pretty awesome but cold hour.

We also shortened our stay at Kartchner Caverns, visiting both Bisbee (again), Tombstone (again) and we went on a tour of the Karchner Cavern. They have a great visitor center and knowledgable docents. It has a pretty good story about the discovery of the caverns.

"Hoping to protect the cave from vandalism,  they kept the location a secret for fourteen years, deciding that the best way to preserve the cavern" ...
-- Read more about the discovery of the Caverns here: Katchner Caverns

The nearby mountain hid the sunsets here but the reflective light to the east was absolutely amazing.

Kartchner Caverns State Park

Kartchner Caverns State Park

We visited Organ Pipe National Monument two different times while in Arizona and I loved it so much I wrote a separate blog post all about our time there.
-- Read that post here: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

We had more Tucson time while staying at Gilbert Ray just west of the city. What a great place to be. It is just down the road from the Old Tucson Studios which is an old western movie set turned gentle theme park. We heard cowboy stories, took in a can can show and watched a comedic stunt actor show. Then we ran into people we had met at a previous camp and witnessed the daily shoot out together. We spent the good part of a day there and it was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. So many westerns were filmed there so if you are a western film buff you will really like it. Even if you aren't it's amusing and fun.

Bath House at Old Tucson Studios

Me and the Guys at Old Tucson Studios

Gilbert Ray is adjacent to Saguaro National Park (west) which is for sure one of my favorite places on earth. It was here that we made a wrong turn one night and realized we were driving on the perfect alien abduction road. I am sure I would be a great location scout for the movies, if of course I had any interest in working. We drove the Bajada Loop Drive at the west park and on another day drove over Gates Pass and to the other side of Tucson to drive the Cactus Forest Drive at the Saguaro National Park (east park).

Perfect Alien Abduction Road (at night)

Gilbert Ray Pima County 

Our last stop in Arizona was to visit friends in Scottsdale, We took a lovely walk at Papago Park the surreal oasis and spent a few days near Apache Junction in the Superstition Mountains.

Papago Park, Scottsdale

Superstition Mountains, Apache Junction

"Then the wind blew cool through the pinyons on the rim. There was a sweet tang of cedar and sage on the air and that indefinable fragrance peculiar to the canyon country of Arizona."  ~Zane Grey

Hasta la proxima vez / Until next time
Adios Arizona

Next Stop: Joshua Tree

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument - 2020

The Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is a true desert experience. It is located along the Arizona Mexico border in south western Arizona and it part of the Sonoran Desert. The Sonoran Desert is a North American desert which covers large parts of the Southwestern United States in Arizona and California and Northwestern Mexico in Sonora, and Baja California Sur. It is the hottest desert in Mexico. It is the greenest desert in the world. This portion of the desert is designated as a National Monument and was established to protect this unique species of cactus. The blooms open in summer and are pollinated by the nectar-feeding Long-nosed Bat. Beautiful and unique this is the farthest north region in which these cactus can survive. 

 

Organ Pipe Cactus

The Sonoran Desert has five seasons, dry summer, summer monsoon, fall, winter (rainy) and spring. Abundant wildlife thrives here and includes many species of reptiles, birds, kit fox, deer, bobcat, cougar and coyote. There are big blue skies, blazing orange sunsets and beautiful silence. This is a dark sky community and there are so many stars. There are other surprises too in this incredible land and we were happy to stumble on this organ pipe cactus cristate. The cristate is a somewhat rare mutation which also appears in other species of cactus.

Cristate Organ Pipe Cactus

The Ocotillo has spines on woody stems and basically looks rather dead most of the year. It's not technically a cactus but it looks like one and is an incredibly drought tolerant plant that you do not want to touch. It is a beautiful contrast to the other desert plants with its skinny tall stems. In the spring when it blooms, it has flame-shaped orange-red flower clusters atop each long thin stem. 

Ocotillo

To say that Arizona sunsets are the best is an understatement. They win hands down for consistently providing endless variety and evening entertainment. The dry desert conditions combined with upper-level clouds creates amazing shows of iridescent pink, orange and purple hues. We were rarely disappointed. 

We drove the Ajo Mountain Scenic Loop, stopping along the way and reading the road guide. This scenic drive crosses the Diablo Mountains, passes along the base of the Ajo Mountains and crosses the Sonoyta Valley. 

Ajo Mountain Scenic Drive

We attended several ranger programs. One about the history of places within the park. Another one about coyotes (song dogs) and another one about stargazing. 

Super Moon

We hiked the loop around the camp several times and also hiked the Victoria Mine Trail twice, but, not on the same day. Rangers here have one of their scheduled days as a hiking day so often we would pass a Ranger on the trail. 

When we first arrived, I was concerned, we would stumble on distressed people making illegal crossings. There were signs posted to alert us. We did not see anyone, but, it's not entirely uncommon. Customs and Border Patrol (CBP) are diligent here and busy. You could see where the land was in need of restoration due to the destruction of illegal crossings. There were lots of CPB patrols, roadside checkpoints and helicopter patrols.

We also drove a portion of the Puerto Blanco Road which runs along the international border where the wall is being built. It was quite an emotional experience. When you see the harshness of this environment, how vast it all is, you see an unforgiving land. I think about the people who traffic others with a somewhat false hope of helping them cross the border. Everything out there can hurt you and there are many things that can kill you. I think about distressed people, trying to flee their homeland for what they hope is a better life. I look at this terrain and see how difficult it would be to traverse this unforgiving land. I believe they must be so desperate they are willing to die just for the chance. I think about how humanitarian aid has become a crime and how human rights advocates have carried gallons of water into remote areas of the Sonoran desert and been arrested. 

Mural, Ajo, Arizona

On a happier note, this was definitely one of my favorite places while we were on the road. In fact we loved it so much we returned to for a second time while in Arizona. Pristine beauty and incredible silence. It was here at the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument that we both earned our Desert Ranger Patch. I've always been an advocate and a conservationist and it was a fun and interesting exercise. We made our way through the workbook, completed the requirements and pledged to preserve and protect the National Parks and Monuments.

How incredibly blessed we are to have the life we have and to get to see so many unique and beautiful places. Our new van has made things so much easier. Travel makes me happy and I intend to do more of it for as long as I can.

"If you don't die of thirst, there are blessings in the desert. You can be pulled into limitlessness, which we all yearn for, or you can do the beauty of minutiae, the scrimshaw of tiny and precise. The sky is your ocean, and the crystal silence will uplift you like great gospel music, or Neil Young." - Anne Lamott