Prague, Czech Republic

I was first in Prague in 2008 and it was magical. The stunning architecture and picturesque views day and night. I don’t think people knew about how wonderful a place this was back then and it surely was not crowded. The architecture remains absolutely amazing which is exactly why it brought us back here to see it again. Times change and apparently the rest of the world has found that Prague is one of the cheaper cities to visit in Europe. The hordes of peopled made the narrow streets of the old town so crowded that you could barely see the charm. I never imagined December would be such a busy time. It surprised me but then again I live in a bubble in a smaller midwestern city. 

We visited the sight of the Lennon wall and it had been pasted over with countless stickers..it supposed to be an ever evolving mural but I preferred it with paint and markers, as photographed in 2008. 

Then there is the infant Jesus of Prague. We visited the museum of its outfits and I’m still shaking my head as to how ridiculous this is, but it was my second time seeing it so I guess it intrigues me in an odd way. 

The Dancing House was designed by the Croatian-Czech architect Vlado Milunid in cooperation with Canadian-American architect Frank Gehry on a vacant riverfront plot. It's beautiful and insanely modern against the backdrop of all the historic buildings in Prague. 

Where to next? Mexico of course!

Germany and Austria - December 2024

Munich 

What can you say about the Hofbrauhaus? It’s a must even though it is filled with annoying tourists and HUGE beers. I went for the Raddler half beer and half lemonade (which is perfect because I am half German and half Italian) and there was no way I would ever make it through a liter of beer. Luckily we were seated with some Brits and they had no problems imbibing in several if not too many. Fun times and we had a little parade of Krampus come through the beer hall.

It’s a spaceship vacation home, by Finnish architect Matti Suuronen. The Futuro House was designed in the 1960’s and originally produces about 100 of them. They were made of fiberglass and plastic prefabricated, cheap and stylish. It was ahead of its time. I love it. This one stands out side of the Pinakothek deer Moderne in Munich. Sadly it wasn’t open for viewing the day we were there. 

We rode the train from Munich to Dachau town and then a bus to the Memorial Site. It was dreary and raining and we tried to imagine that people arriving by train then had to make the long walk from the train to the Concentration camp. There was a museum in one of the buildings and we could walk on the grounds and see a rebuilt replica of the housing situation. There are no words. 

We lost Swede while we were in Vienna so our time here was not only surreal but also filled with sadness. It was Cafe Ritter that was a saving grace and it warmed our spirits for a bit and filled our bellies. It was a tiny bit worn down just like us but it shimmered in the holiday lights and gave us excellent service and a wonderful traditional Austrian meal. We were lucky to stumble upon it. It was quiet and cozy and you could just imaging all the conversations that had taken place here amongst its patrons. 

Next stop Prague.

Prickly Little Things - Arizona 2020

Like a Wildfire

You know you are in Arizona when you carry a pliers in your hiking pack. Don't touch anything here. There are lots of things that can hurt you or kill you. Prickly little things. Who knew there were poisonous centipedes? Who knew that desert rats want to build a nest in your engine and chew on your electrical wires? The list can go on but I am definitely having a big love affair with Arizona as it tries once again to steal my heart. All the sunshine, mountains, beautiful landscapes, wild spaces, breathtaking endless beauty and animated saguaro cactus. Almost every night an insane display of fiery sunsets and evening skies.

We really covered a lot of Arizona desert ground this time, went on some fantastic hikes and feel like we have discovered some new places. Catalina State Park is a repeat visit and we never manage to get a spot in the regular campground. We end up in the overflow but love it all the same. It's like an old wagon circle, people talk to each other and wait for the sunsets. The coyotes howl at night. It's just on the north edge of the Tucson city limits near the Oro Valley at the base of the Catalina Mountains.

Just a quick drive north to Oracle, Arizona is the Triangle L Ranch. It is by far my favorite art park anywhere. It is ever changing and the people that live and work there are as friendly as can be. It's a beautiful place to stroll around. It's only open on Saturdays and for special events but they have a sweet little bed and breakfast there so if you stay there you can walk around anytime you want.

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

We stayed at several other Arizona State parks. The parks are all great and seriously well managed. If you  don't mind sitting still, you will have what you need. We quickly realized here at Picacho Peak State Park that we needed to rearrange our itinerary and shortened our stay. This park was nestled between the peak and an interstate, not exactly comforting and there was no where to go. We did have one chilly afternoon in the little amphitheater with a singing cowboy and that was a pretty awesome but cold hour.

We also shortened our stay at Kartchner Caverns, visiting both Bisbee (again), Tombstone (again) and we went on a tour of the Karchner Cavern. They have a great visitor center and knowledgable docents. It has a pretty good story about the discovery of the caverns.

"Hoping to protect the cave from vandalism,  they kept the location a secret for fourteen years, deciding that the best way to preserve the cavern" ...
-- Read more about the discovery of the Caverns here: Katchner Caverns

The nearby mountain hid the sunsets here but the reflective light to the east was absolutely amazing.

Kartchner Caverns State Park

Kartchner Caverns State Park

We visited Organ Pipe National Monument two different times while in Arizona and I loved it so much I wrote a separate blog post all about our time there.
-- Read that post here: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

We had more Tucson time while staying at Gilbert Ray just west of the city. What a great place to be. It is just down the road from the Old Tucson Studios which is an old western movie set turned gentle theme park. We heard cowboy stories, took in a can can show and watched a comedic stunt actor show. Then we ran into people we had met at a previous camp and witnessed the daily shoot out together. We spent the good part of a day there and it was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. So many westerns were filmed there so if you are a western film buff you will really like it. Even if you aren't it's amusing and fun.

Bath House at Old Tucson Studios

Me and the Guys at Old Tucson Studios

Gilbert Ray is adjacent to Saguaro National Park (west) which is for sure one of my favorite places on earth. It was here that we made a wrong turn one night and realized we were driving on the perfect alien abduction road. I am sure I would be a great location scout for the movies, if of course I had any interest in working. We drove the Bajada Loop Drive at the west park and on another day drove over Gates Pass and to the other side of Tucson to drive the Cactus Forest Drive at the Saguaro National Park (east park).

Perfect Alien Abduction Road (at night)

Gilbert Ray Pima County 

Our last stop in Arizona was to visit friends in Scottsdale, We took a lovely walk at Papago Park the surreal oasis and spent a few days near Apache Junction in the Superstition Mountains.

Papago Park, Scottsdale

Superstition Mountains, Apache Junction

"Then the wind blew cool through the pinyons on the rim. There was a sweet tang of cedar and sage on the air and that indefinable fragrance peculiar to the canyon country of Arizona."  ~Zane Grey

Hasta la proxima vez / Until next time
Adios Arizona

Next Stop: Joshua Tree

Laissez les bon temps rouler - New Orleans 2019

Big Chief Monk Boudreaux

Laissez les bon temps rouler” (lay-ZEH leh BAWN taw ROO-leh)
Let the good times roll... 

New Orleans is one of a kind. It is steeped in history and traditions like no other City in the United States. There is so much more here than the French Quarter of which I would bet that most visitors rarely get out of. Great museums, parks and culture. 

How can one not be intrigued by the tradition of the Mardi Gras Indians? The Mardi Gras Indians came about because cultural separation did not include the black neighborhoods in Mardi Gras celebrations. The Mardi Gras Indians named themselves after Native American indians to pay them respect for their helped and accepted slaves into their society when they made a break for freedom. Their krewes are named after imaginary Indian tribes according to the streets of their ward or gang. Their costumes are amazing and the craft work that goes into them astounds me. 

We have spoiled ourselves. We are at the beginning of the longest road trip we have ever been on. We started out our journey by renting half of a double shotgun home in the uptown area of New Orleans. It's not exactly living in a van just quite yet but more Van-in-the-city. I just keep saying it's all good and we have plenty of camping in our van coming up over the next few months.

Our extended stay in this city has allowed us to drink in the culture and see more than what you would do on a long weekend. We have both been here a few times before but this time is more close up. We are perhaps living like locals. We have discovered great urban walks, fun music venues and cozy little lunch spots. We also have great direction from my extensive research of things to do and we have friends in town that are leading us to places we would have never found on our own. It's not exactly budget friendly fun but we hardly missing a thing and it some how balances all out. 

There is great music all around this city. Something for everyone. You really can't go wrong with attending the monthly Fa Do Do at  the legendary Tipatina's with Bruce Draigrepont. He is a fantastic front man and plays those dance tunes like no one else. What a fantastic night with a great band. It doesn't even matter if you can't or won't dance, the music is fantastic. He is integral to the history of Tipatina's and a nice guy too that took time at the end of the gig to talk to us for a few minutes. 

Bruce Draigrepont

The Iguanas at the Circle Bar pretty much every Wednesday is an amazing treat. It's the most intimate setting just like someone's living room and they are indeed world class. With two multi instrumentalist and languages in English and Spanish, I was in tiny venue heaven.

The Iguanas

Chubby Carrier Rock n Bowl

We looked for the Tree of Life in Audubon Park more than once and when we found it we realized we had just been driving by it repeatedly. So many old and large live oaks all around and in this park. Once we got out of the van we could see why it is so special. They think this one is about 300 years old. There are so many amazing trees in Audubon Park but this one clearly deserves special attention. 

Tree of Life - Audubon Park

Another great place to take a walk is the Bestoff Sculpture Garden at City Park adjacent to the New Orleans Museum of Art. It's not only free it has a great mix of 20th Century Sculptures. It's a beautiful setting with several places to rest and enjoy the surroundings. We loved it and went there twice. 

Studio BE. Absolute Truth and Beauty. What an extraordinary exhibition by Brandon "B-mike " Odums, artist, activist and mentor. The pieces reflect the impact of Katrina on the community, the Black experience, history and the Civil Rights Movement. Very very powerful social justice statement. It is probably one of the most moving exhibits I have seen in quite some time. Emotional. Brilliant. 

We made it to Grand Isle, the mouth of the Mississippi and that was a great place to spend the day. It's kind of off season here so we basically had the place to ourselves. Who doesn't love a deserted beach stroll?

We went to the Garyville Louisiana Levee along the Mississippi River to see the 45 foot Alligator Bonfire but I was at the mercy of my friends and they didn't want to wait the 15 minutes before they lit it up. We started driving north toward Gramercy because there were more fires there, the possibility of food and drink but the traffic got so crazy there was a quick U-turn and our adventure ended without climax. I did see a few stray fireworks over the distant levee from the backseat window of the car. The tradition of the fires is strong along the levee to light the way for Papa Noel. .

We attended the Big Nine Second Line Parade and walked several miles along side the parade. I loved seeing people with a connection to their club, neighborhood, city or traditions, something I do not feel apart of in my own home city. Fantastic display of home made costumes, feathers and lively steppers. Brass bands and decorated floats. We ended up visiting the St. Roch Market and stopping in for a snack. It was a nice renovation of the old market place oddly upscale for the neighborhood, cold and loud inside. We walked back through the neighborhood and looked at all the houses, most of which in this neighborhood were needing a some TLC but some were darling little gems.

A week later we had the honor of meeting Ronald Lewis, culture bearer who curates a cultural museum which is based on his participation in the culture of the Mardi Gras Indians, Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs and the skull and bones gangs. His work preserves and shares the culture and passes on the knowledge and traditions for the next generations. Ronald is president of the Big Nine Social Aid and Pleasure Club, former Council Chief of the Choctaw Hunters, former King of Krewe de Vieux, a lifelong resident of the Lower Ninth Ward, survivor of the two worst hurricanes in US history, Betsy in '65 and Katrina in 2005.

Update: Sadly Ronald passed away on March 20 due to complication from diabetes and other medical conditions. He will be surely missed by all those whose lives he touched. He was an amazing spirit, a beautiful light. I am especially honored to have met him. 

We entered the nondescript building with hardly a sign, took a number and waited at Domalise's for a while to order up our po-boy sandwiches. While we were waiting we met a couple were thought were just typical football fans and it ended up one was a Jazz guitarist and the other a second chair violinist for the Memphis Orchestra. So never judge a book by its cover. Be nice to people. They were delightful and we ended up sitting with them and eventually ordering and eating our po-boys 

Revellion Dinner at Brigsten's was a real budget buster. You can catch my honest review on Trip Advisor. As we entered the creole cottage there was a magazine photographer and he asked us if we would be willing to be in the shoot. He then came indoors to our table and took some photos as we dined. We then were asked to sign a release for our images to be used in the Eating Well Magazine. Be on the lookout for me in an upcoming issue of Eating Well Magazine, because I am pretty sure that my curly hair will appear in one of those photos! The one where my smoked salmon toast point broke apart when I bit into it. 

The Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve is just 25 minutes from New Orleans and it is like another world. The Park has a beautiful boardwalk trail that goes through the bayou. On property nearby were were booked on a swamp tour where we were able to get out into the channel and see marshes, swamps and alligators. 

Mardi Gras World is an insanely huge warehouse and artistic building space. They build and created floats for their clients. We were able to see the artists working in different studios. There were also countless props in storage from previous Mardi Gras float builds. 

We visited the Whitney Plantation which is the only plantation museum in Louisiana with an exclusive focus on the lives of enslaved people. Expertly presented with highly knowledgeable docents. There are many memorials and restored buildings on the sugar plantation property. Remembrances for those that built and worked this property. Our guide provided many fantastic examples of how the 1% has always and continues to create a culture which will always create ways to divide the people against themselves. Through their research they have developed some excellent educational materials that can be used with curriculum in the schools. 
Please read more about it here: https://www.whitneyplantation.org/

What an amazing time we have had. Oddly we are leaving right as the Mardi Gras season begins, Twelfth Night. We say good bye to our fake New Orleans home and neighborhood knowing that New Orleans will not disappear. It's spirit is strong. It's people proud. There are some amazing and lovable characters here in this community that eats, dances, hugs, makes music, parades, laughs, lives large and is always talking about the next meal. 

"Just relax, darlin'. This is the Big Easy. Folks have a certain way o' doin'things down here. 
~ Remi McSwain.

Next Stop: Houston