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| Big Chief Monk Boudreaux |
Laissez les bon temps rouler” (lay-ZEH leh BAWN taw ROO-leh)
Let the good times roll...
New Orleans is one of a kind. It is steeped in history and traditions like no other City in the United States. There is so much more here than the French Quarter of which I would bet that most visitors rarely get out of. Great museums, parks and culture.
How can one not be intrigued by the tradition of the Mardi Gras Indians? The Mardi Gras Indians came about because cultural separation did not include the black neighborhoods in Mardi Gras celebrations. The Mardi Gras Indians named themselves after Native American indians to pay them respect for their helped and accepted slaves into their society when they made a break for freedom. Their krewes are named after imaginary Indian tribes according to the streets of their ward or gang. Their costumes are amazing and the craft work that goes into them astounds me.
We have spoiled ourselves. We are at the beginning of the longest road trip we have ever been on. We started out our journey by renting half of a double shotgun home in the uptown area of New Orleans. It's not exactly living in a van just quite yet but more Van-in-the-city. I just keep saying it's all good and we have plenty of camping in our van coming up over the next few months.
Our extended stay in this city has allowed us to drink in the culture and see more than what you would do on a long weekend. We have both been here a few times before but this time is more close up. We are perhaps living like locals. We have discovered great urban walks, fun music venues and cozy little lunch spots. We also have great direction from my extensive research of things to do and we have friends in town that are leading us to places we would have never found on our own. It's not exactly budget friendly fun but we hardly missing a thing and it some how balances all out.
There is great music all around this city. Something for everyone. You really can't go wrong with attending the monthly Fa Do Do at the legendary Tipatina's with Bruce Draigrepont. He is a fantastic front man and plays those dance tunes like no one else. What a fantastic night with a great band. It doesn't even matter if you can't or won't dance, the music is fantastic. He is integral to the history of Tipatina's and a nice guy too that took time at the end of the gig to talk to us for a few minutes.
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| Bruce Draigrepont |
The Iguanas at the Circle Bar pretty much every Wednesday is an amazing treat. It's the most intimate setting just like someone's living room and they are indeed world class. With two multi instrumentalist and languages in English and Spanish, I was in tiny venue heaven.
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| The Iguanas |
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| Chubby Carrier Rock n Bowl |
We looked for the Tree of Life in Audubon Park more than once and when we found it we realized we had just been driving by it repeatedly. So many old and large live oaks all around and in this park. Once we got out of the van we could see why it is so special. They think this one is about 300 years old. There are so many amazing trees in Audubon Park but this one clearly deserves special attention.
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| Tree of Life - Audubon Park |
Another great place to take a walk is the Bestoff Sculpture Garden at City Park adjacent to the New Orleans Museum of Art. It's not only free it has a great mix of 20th Century Sculptures. It's a beautiful setting with several places to rest and enjoy the surroundings. We loved it and went there twice.
Studio BE. Absolute Truth and Beauty. What an extraordinary exhibition by Brandon "B-mike " Odums, artist, activist and mentor. The pieces reflect the impact of Katrina on the community, the Black experience, history and the Civil Rights Movement. Very very powerful social justice statement. It is probably one of the most moving exhibits I have seen in quite some time. Emotional. Brilliant.
We made it to Grand Isle, the mouth of the Mississippi and that was a great place to spend the day. It's kind of off season here so we basically had the place to ourselves. Who doesn't love a deserted beach stroll?
We went to the Garyville Louisiana Levee along the Mississippi River to see the 45 foot Alligator Bonfire but I was at the mercy of my friends and they didn't want to wait the 15 minutes before they lit it up. We started driving north toward Gramercy because there were more fires there, the possibility of food and drink but the traffic got so crazy there was a quick U-turn and our adventure ended without climax. I did see a few stray fireworks over the distant levee from the backseat window of the car. The tradition of the fires is strong along the levee to light the way for Papa Noel. .
We attended the Big Nine Second Line Parade and walked several miles along side the parade. I loved seeing people with a connection to their club, neighborhood, city or traditions, something I do not feel apart of in my own home city. Fantastic display of home made costumes, feathers and lively steppers. Brass bands and decorated floats. We ended up visiting the St. Roch Market and stopping in for a snack. It was a nice renovation of the old market place oddly upscale for the neighborhood, cold and loud inside. We walked back through the neighborhood and looked at all the houses, most of which in this neighborhood were needing a some TLC but some were darling little gems.
A week later we had the honor of meeting Ronald Lewis, culture bearer who curates a cultural museum which is based on his participation in the culture of the Mardi Gras Indians, Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs and the skull and bones gangs. His work preserves and shares the culture and passes on the knowledge and traditions for the next generations. Ronald is president of the Big Nine Social Aid and Pleasure Club, former Council Chief of the Choctaw Hunters, former King of Krewe de Vieux, a lifelong resident of the Lower Ninth Ward, survivor of the two worst hurricanes in US history, Betsy in '65 and Katrina in 2005.
Update: Sadly Ronald passed away on March 20 due to complication from diabetes and other medical conditions. He will be surely missed by all those whose lives he touched. He was an amazing spirit, a beautiful light. I am especially honored to have met him.
We entered the nondescript building with hardly a sign, took a number and waited at Domalise's for a while to order up our po-boy sandwiches. While we were waiting we met a couple were thought were just typical football fans and it ended up one was a Jazz guitarist and the other a second chair violinist for the Memphis Orchestra. So never judge a book by its cover. Be nice to people. They were delightful and we ended up sitting with them and eventually ordering and eating our po-boys
Revellion Dinner at Brigsten's was a real budget buster. You can catch my honest review on Trip Advisor. As we entered the creole cottage there was a magazine photographer and he asked us if we would be willing to be in the shoot. He then came indoors to our table and took some photos as we dined. We then were asked to sign a release for our images to be used in the Eating Well Magazine. Be on the lookout for me in an upcoming issue of Eating Well Magazine, because I am pretty sure that my curly hair will appear in one of those photos! The one where my smoked salmon toast point broke apart when I bit into it.
The Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve is just 25 minutes from New Orleans and it is like another world. The Park has a beautiful boardwalk trail that goes through the bayou. On property nearby were were booked on a swamp tour where we were able to get out into the channel and see marshes, swamps and alligators.
Mardi Gras World is an insanely huge warehouse and artistic building space. They build and created floats for their clients. We were able to see the artists working in different studios. There were also countless props in storage from previous Mardi Gras float builds.
We visited the Whitney Plantation which is the only plantation museum in Louisiana with an exclusive focus on the lives of enslaved people. Expertly presented with highly knowledgeable docents. There are many memorials and restored buildings on the sugar plantation property. Remembrances for those that built and worked this property. Our guide provided many fantastic examples of how the 1% has always and continues to create a culture which will always create ways to divide the people against themselves. Through their research they have developed some excellent educational materials that can be used with curriculum in the schools.
Please read more about it here: https://www.whitneyplantation.org/
What an amazing time we have had. Oddly we are leaving right as the Mardi Gras season begins, Twelfth Night. We say good bye to our fake New Orleans home and neighborhood knowing that New Orleans will not disappear. It's spirit is strong. It's people proud. There are some amazing and lovable characters here in this community that eats, dances, hugs, makes music, parades, laughs, lives large and is always talking about the next meal.
"Just relax, darlin'. This is the Big Easy. Folks have a certain way o' doin'things down here.
~ Remi McSwain.
Next Stop: Houston
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