Showing posts with label nationalparks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label nationalparks. Show all posts

Friday, April 3, 2020

California Teaser - March 2020


Joshua Tree has always been special and we have visited here once before. This time we booked into Jumbo Rocks, one of the campgrounds located in the park and it was a much more joyful experience. We were able to hike the Cholla Cactus Garden Loop and also the Skull Rock Loop. We drove by the Oasis of Mara which didn't look any better than when we saw it two years ago shortly after the arson fire.
Cholla Cactus Garden - Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree
Joshua Tree National Park
We have lights we use to keep the pack rats out of our engine area but one night while here we woke up to something snooping around under our hood. I stayed in the van due to my unlove of anything rodent and Lyle was hoping to lure it out of there by shining a bright flashlight in it's eyes and swearing at it. Nothing seemed to work so we started the engine and drove out of the camp and down the road at 4am. It either got away or died. Either scenario worked for me.
Jumbo Rocks Campground, Joshua Tree

Heading our of Joshua Tree National Park we passed through the town of Borego Springs. We were there before but it was so crowded with people trying to see the super-bloom of 2019 that we didn't stop. On this day it was a sleepy little town that was just hanging a very well curated plein art landscape show. Lots of inspiration there. We spent the night at Tamarisk Grove Campground. This place has an interesting history. It was a San Diego County prison camp which built roads in this once remote area.
Tamarisk Grove
We left there and headed to the Agua Caleiente County Park which is one of San Diego's regional parks. This place has three geothermal pools with the warmest one housed indoors. This is however what is considered a family park. It was by far the noisiest park we have been to, filled with families and children. In addition there was a Winnebago Travato club gathering which also contributed to the noise factor. A couple of Travato owners stopped by because our van is also a Ram Promaster and they were more than curious to see a custom build and compare it to their manufactured RV with the very hefty price tag.
After two days we are headed to San Diego its and easy drive, about 100 miles to the park that was to be our "home" for the next 21 days.  During our first week, it rained 4 out of 6 days. As news started to creep in regarding the pandemic we could see stress levels rising and it was then that we realized people were starting to horde food. We spent the weekend not really going anywhere and looking at what our options could be. We made the decision to return all the way back home to Minneapolis. We felt is was safer for us to ride this out in our own home instead traveling for 6 more weeks in a van with an unsure calendar of booked lodgings scattered in California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado.
We drove 2170 miles home over the next 4 days, eating our own food, loading up on non perishable foods, sleeping in rest stops and a small motel in Des Moines on our last night. On the day we returned home the camp we had been staying at in San Diego closed and evicted all the campers. Since that time many of the other places we had scheduled to visit either closed or remained open with no services. We made the right choice to return home. We are thankful for all the businesses that kindly relaxed their cancellation policies for reservations and refunded our money.
We are most definitely missing our view to the west. Missing sunsets and adventures. We are disappointed that our travels ended somewhat abruptly. It was definitely a California teaser. We missed our last two weeks in Sand Diego and our time scheduled for Death Valley National Park.

In addition we missed out on  planned time on BLM land near Lake Mead and time scheduled for hiking at Bryce Canyon, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Utah. Lastly, we didn't get to Glenwood Springs and Denver. And so it goes...

Minneapolis is mostly gray and dreary but we made the right decision to end our travels. Spring will get here eventually. It's all humbling. For now we are safe at home which makes things a bit easier.

Wishing everyone we know, good health and happiness. Stay tuned for future adventures whenever and wherever that may be.

"The Future is unwritten." ~ Joe Strummer

Monday, March 30, 2020

Prickly Little Things - Arizona 2020


Like a Wildfire
You know you are in Arizona when you carry a pliers in your hiking pack. Don't touch anything here. There are lots of things that can hurt you or kill you. Prickly little things. Who knew there were poisonous centipedes? Who knew that desert rats want to build a nest in your engine and chew on your electrical wires? The list can go on but I am definitely having a big love affair with Arizona as it tries once again to steal my heart. All the sunshine, mountains, beautiful landscapes, wild spaces, breathtaking endless beauty and animated saguaro cactus. Almost every night an insane display of fiery sunsets and evening skies.

We really covered a lot of Arizona desert ground this time, went on some fantastic hikes and feel like we have discovered some new places. Catalina State Park is a repeat visit and we never manage to get a spot in the regular campground. We end up in the overflow but love it all the same. It's like an old wagon circle, people talk to each other and wait for the sunsets. The coyotes howl at night. It's just on the north edge of the Tucson city limits near the Oro Valley at the base of the Catalina Mountains.
Just a quick drive north to Oracle, Arizona is the Triangle L Ranch. It is by far my favorite art park anywhere. It is ever changing and the people that live and work there are as friendly as can be. It's a beautiful place to stroll around. It's only open on Saturdays and for special events but they have a sweet little bed and breakfast there so if you stay there you can walk around anytime you want.
Triangle L Ranch
Triangle L Ranch
Triangle L Ranch
Triangle L Ranch
We stayed at several other Arizona State parks. The parks are all great and seriously well managed. If you  don't mind sitting still, you will have what you need. We quickly realized here at Picacho Peak State Park that we needed to rearrange our itinerary and shortened our stay. This park was nestled between the peak and an interstate, not exactly comforting and there was no where to go. We did have one chilly afternoon in the little amphitheater with a singing cowboy and that was a pretty awesome but cold hour.

We also shortened our stay at Kartchner Caverns, visiting both Bisbee (again), Tombstone (again) and we went on a tour of the Karchner Cavern. They have a great visitor center and knowledgable docents. It has a pretty good story about the discovery of the caverns.

"Hoping to protect the cave from vandalism,  they kept the location a secret for fourteen years, deciding that the best way to preserve the cavern" ...
-- Read more about the discovery of the Caverns here: Katchner Caverns

The nearby mountain hid the sunsets here but the reflective light to the east was absolutely amazing.
Kartchner Caverns State Park
Kartchner Caverns State Park
We visited Organ Pipe National Monument two different times while in Arizona and I loved it so much I wrote a separate blog post all about our time there.
-- Read that post here: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

We had more Tucson time while staying at Gilbert Ray just west of the city. What a great place to be. It is just down the road from the Old Tucson Studios which is an old western movie set turned gentle theme park. We heard cowboy stories, took in a can can show and watched a comedic stunt actor show. Then we ran into people we had met at a previous camp and witnessed the daily shoot out together. We spent the good part of a day there and it was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. So many westerns were filmed there so if you are a western film buff you will really like it. Even if you aren't it's amusing and fun.
Bath House at Old Tucson Studios
Me and the Guys at Old Tucson Studios
Gilbert Ray is adjacent to Saguaro National Park (west) which is for sure one of my favorite places on earth. It was here that we made a wrong turn one night and realized we were driving on the perfect alien abduction road. I am sure I would be a great location scout for the movies, if of course I had any interest in working. We drove the Bajada Loop Drive at the west park and on another day drove over Gates Pass and to the other side of Tucson to drive the Cactus Forest Drive at the Saguaro National Park (east park).
Perfect Alien Abduction Road (at night)
Gilbert Ray Pima County 
Our last stop in Arizona was to visit friends in Scottsdale, We took a lovely walk at Papago Park the surreal oasis and spent a few days near Apache Junction in the Superstition Mountains.
Papago Park, Scottsdale
Superstition Mountains, Apache Junction
"Then the wind blew cool through the pinyons on the rim. There was a sweet tang of cedar and sage on the air and that indefinable fragrance peculiar to the canyon country of Arizona."  ~Zane Grey

Hasta la proxima vez / Until next time
Adios Arizona
Next Stop: Joshua Tree


Tuesday, March 24, 2020

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument - 2020

The Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is a true desert experience. It is located along the Arizona Mexico border in south western Arizona and it part of the Sonoran Desert. The Sonoran Desert is a North American desert which covers large parts of the Southwestern United States in Arizona and California and Northwestern Mexico in Sonora, and Baja California Sur. It is the hottest desert in Mexico. It is the greenest desert in the world. This portion of the desert is designated as a National Monument and was established to protect this unique species of cactus. The blooms open in summer and are pollinated by the nectar-feeding Long-nosed Bat. Beautiful and unique this is the farthest north region in which these cactus can survive. 
 
Organ Pipe Cactus
The Sonoran Desert has five seasons, dry summer, summer monsoon, fall, winter (rainy) and spring. Abundant wildlife thrives here and includes many species of reptiles, birds, kit fox, deer, bobcat, cougar and coyote. There are big blue skies, blazing orange sunsets and beautiful silence. This is a dark sky community and there are so many stars. There are other surprises too in this incredible land and we were happy to stumble on this organ pipe cactus cristate. The cristate is a somewhat rare mutation which also appears in other species of cactus.
Cristate Organ Pipe Cactus
The Ocotillo has spines on woody stems and basically looks rather dead most of the year. It's not technically a cactus but it looks like one and is an incredibly drought tolerant plant that you do not want to touch. It is a beautiful contrast to the other desert plants with its skinny tall stems. In the spring when it blooms, it has flame-shaped orange-red flower clusters atop each long thin stem. 
Ocotillo
To say that Arizona sunsets are the best is an understatement. They win hands down for consistently providing endless variety and evening entertainment. The dry desert conditions combined with upper-level clouds creates amazing shows of iridescent pink, orange and purple hues. We were rarely disappointed. 
We drove the Ajo Mountain Scenic Loop, stopping along the way and reading the road guide. This scenic drive crosses the Diablo Mountains, passes along the base of the Ajo Mountains and crosses the Sonoyta Valley. 
Ajo Mountain Scenic Drive
We attended several ranger programs. One about the history of places within the park. Another one about coyotes (song dogs) and another one about stargazing. 
Super Moon
We hiked the loop around the camp several times and also hiked the Victoria Mine Trail twice, but, not on the same day. Rangers here have one of their scheduled days as a hiking day so often we would pass a Ranger on the trail. 
When we first arrived, I was concerned, we would stumble on distressed people making illegal crossings. There were signs posted to alert us. We did not see anyone, but, it's not entirely uncommon. Customs and Border Patrol (CBP) are diligent here and busy. You could see where the land was in need of restoration due to the destruction of illegal crossings. There were lots of CPB patrols, roadside checkpoints and helicopter patrols.

We also drove a portion of the Puerto Blanco Road which runs along the international border where the wall is being built. It was quite an emotional experience. When you see the harshness of this environment, how vast it all is, you see an unforgiving land. I think about the people who traffic others with a somewhat false hope of helping them cross the border. Everything out there can hurt you and there are many things that can kill you. I think about distressed people, trying to flee their homeland for what they hope is a better life. I look at this terrain and see how difficult it would be to traverse this unforgiving land. I believe they must be so desperate they are willing to die just for the chance. I think about how humanitarian aid has become a crime and how human rights advocates have carried gallons of water into remote areas of the Sonoran desert and been arrested. 
Mural, Ajo, Arizona
On a happier note, this was definitely one of my favorite places while we were on the road. In fact we loved it so much we returned to for a second time while in Arizona. Pristine beauty and incredible silence. It was here at the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument that we both earned our Desert Ranger Patch. I've always been an advocate and a conservationist and it was a fun and interesting exercise. We made our way through the workbook, completed the requirements and pledged to preserve and protect the National Parks and Monuments.

How incredibly blessed we are to have the life we have and to get to see so many unique and beautiful places. Our new van has made things so much easier. Travel makes me happy and I intend to do more of it for as long as I can.

"If you don't die of thirst, there are blessings in the desert. You can be pulled into limitlessness, which we all yearn for, or you can do the beauty of minutiae, the scrimshaw of tiny and precise. The sky is your ocean, and the crystal silence will uplift you like great gospel music, or Neil Young." - Anne Lamott


Saturday, March 21, 2020

Big Bend National Park - January 2020


It's a long drive from Houston but everyone should drive across Texas at least once in their life. I've done it twice in the last few years. Each time I see more and more of what makes Texas great. The night skies are dark in far west Texas and the whole reason is to make our way to Big Bend National Park.

Big Bend National Park is massive and it's border stretches nearly 120 miles along the river. It is the largest, most remote and least visited National Park. It's not on the way to anywhere. It is its own destination. The park has been described as splendid isolation by the National Park Service and that is not an understatement. There is a great silence here amid the expansive beauty. It is indeed the end of the road. It's a strange feeling to look across the river at another country. It's beautiful and sad at the same time. The desert cactus scorched by the southwestern sun and the vastness of this amazing Chihuahuan desert make this a very magical place. I feel honored to be here.

I catch my first glance at the Rio Grande River. I have my first worry that I will see distressed people crossing over from Mexico. I did not. What surprised me most was that the Rio Grande is not so grand at all. Nothing like I remember from the old movies. Water being tapped for irrigation up stream makes for an easy swim across if you are so inclined. I was not.
Rio Grande
We hiked in to where there was a small hot spring perched along the river. It was actually in the remains of a foundation from a former bath house called Boquillas Hot Springs which was long before the land became a National Park. It was a thriving little getaway between 1927 and 1942 during which time it had a little post office, store, motor court and community market. People would come from miles around to trade, shop and take in the healing properties of the hot springs. Big Bend became a national park in 1935. The owner sold the land where the springs are located to the state of Texas in 1942, it became part of the the national park, the buildings were abandoned and fell to ruin in the 1950's. 
Boquillas Hot Spring
Big Bend is the largest protected area of Chihuahuan Desert in the United States. There are 800,000 acres of stunning views, scenic drives and dozens of hiking trails. You can even take a row boat across the river and visit Boquillas village in Mexico if you have your passport handy. We did not. 

It takes a lot of time just to get here. You will want at the very least 3 full days to just skim the surface. If you only allow that I can guarantee you will leave wishing you had allowed more time. Don't cheat yourself, do your research and allow enough time to properly see it. Once you are there you will quickly realize how big this park really is. Just go slow and enjoy what you can. Revel in the solitude.
Leaving Big Bend National Park we make a quick stop in Terilingua. It is a small little ghost town about 5 minutes outside of Big Bend. It was a small but booming little mining town which was abandoned around 1946 after WWI when the need for mercury declined and the mining company went bankrupt and left. It has a small number of residents these days. It's worth driving through town. There is a smattering of local business and restaurants. Make a stop at the cemetery perched along the road with views of the Chisos Mountains and Sierra del Carmens. It's a beautiful example of makeshift graves with a bit of folk art thrown in for good measure.

We made another little stop in the town of Marfa, Texas before heading toward our next destination in Arizona. We've been to Marfa before but we stop again to walk along Donald Judd's legacy. The story of how he came to Marfa, the purchase of abandoned buildings from an old United States Army fort and his important contributions I find, quite interesting. 



Beautiful Texas
“You can live on the plains or the mountains / Or down where the sea breezes blow / But you’re still in beautiful Texas / The most beautiful place that I know.” 
~ Willie Nelson

Next Stop: All kinds of places in Arizona

More information:
https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Bend_National_Park
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Donald_Judd 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinati_Foundation