The Boneyard - Where the Memories Live

Tree of Life

What a strange and wonderful time on the road this past winter with visits to many beautiful and amazing sights, all juxtaposed to the loss of some very memorable and special people. We returned home from travels 6 weeks early to be in the “safety” of our own home. At the end of May we experienced civil unrest here in Minneapolis, resulting in the destruction of our neighborhood businesses. The unrest was triggered by the trauma of another senseless murder of a black man by the hands of men sworn to protect and serve. It appears that some days there is a lot to mourn, lost adventures, friends and connections. There is too much introspection and too much uncertainty. The emotions come in waves. We hope it all balances out. 

I have only seen a small smattering of friends since November due to our winter travels. The Covid-19 has isolated us even more. It’s been a big uncertain and disturbing blur since we returned. I have had plenty of time to think, write, paint, garden, read, dream and hope. As I struggle to weave these little stories of life and loss together, I have repeatedly hesitated to publish this writing because it is so lovingly personal. To publish, seems like the final goodbye, it makes it all painstakingly real, but it had to be written. It had to get thrown out there with all the other little stories. All of our tears are real! 

Riley Burns - Boat Captain, World Traveler

Riley Burns

Riley died in January, when we were on the road trying to escape winter. We found out while staying in a dreary hotel room just outside of San Antonio. We were on our way to Big Bend National Park. 

This was never going to end well. We all knew that. Riley uprooted himself from Alaska and returned to rural Minnesota to be treated at the Mayo Clinic. He could not have had a better care team but the odds were completely stacked against him. We spent time together, met the care team, shared meals and checked in with his siblings. It was some kind of a crazy balance of hope vs prognosis. When it came time to leave for winter, Riley wanted us to go. He was so very brave. His public persona during all this strife will always amaze me. 

After he passed, I would wake up in the middle of the night trying to remember what he looked like when he was healthy. I wanted to know if he knew how his illness infected our hearts. I wondered if he knew how scared we were for him as we tried to comfort him and understand the pain. I know he is released from all that now but I mourn the lost adventures he will never have, that little bit of hope he had to return to his home in Alaska. I mourn for the friendship that is no longer there. 

The brightest star followed us on our westward travels and I like to think that it was telling us that he was OK. We carried our memories and told stories all across Texas. Riley would have loved every gorgeous bit of scenery and every rugged mile. The Big Bend National Park helped our spirits. Riley would have loved it there, big and expansive like Alaska.

R.I.P. Riley Burns, July 3, 1965 - January 13, 2020. We miss you. 

David Bradley - Imagination is Everything

David Bradley

David died on February 16, while we were on the road in Arizona. Social media is odd that way. We find out of a person’s passing and get to read all the shared stories, all while watching a beautiful sunset among the Whetstone Mountains in South Eastern Arizona.  I know David was a “city” guy but as a photographer he would have absolutely fallen in love with the changing light. 

He was the first person I met right after I retired in 2013. We met at Jazz Fest in St. Paul and ran into each other again on the following days for more Jazz Festival events. He was kind with such a beautiful and infectious bright smile. I said something about having just retired and feeling guilty for no longer having to work. He reminded me rather sternly that I deserved the benefits of retirement and that I had indeed worked and sacrificed for every penny that comes to me each month. He probably never knew how his words stuck with me. He was right and I have carried those words with me on through this Third Act of my life.

We shared a love for jazz and his photographs of musicians were amazing. I admired his frankness and honesty about his struggles with PTSD from his service in Vietnam. I think it taught people and reminded them to never forget the sacrifice of those that served our country. We never actually saw each other again but we shared a few stories occasionally about music or traveling, corresponding via email or Facebook. We checked in on each other casually from time to time. I am sorry that David did not get to enjoy more days but I am happy he is no longer struggling. He deserved more, that I know. 

 R.I.P David Bradley, June 10, 1950 - February 16, 2020

Terry Dupuy - Laissez les bons temps rouler

Terry DuPuy

We met Terry quite by accident in 2015 in St. Martinsville, Louisiana while eating lunch at a restaurant near his old sound studio. Terry and Lyle bear a resemblance and we joked about them being twins or cousins. We occasionally over the years made contact via social media chatting mostly about cooking or music. While planning our winter travels last fall, we asked Terry if he would like to visit with us when we passed through on our way to New Orleans. He was excited about it so we made a plan for early and stopped in Marksville in early December. We visited for two days, stayed at a nearby RV camp, met his son, shared dinner, walked around town, attended the tree lighting ceremony and told stories. It gave us a little chance to get to know each other. 

We are extremely grateful for his hospitality and it seemed like we all had a good time. We brought them home canned goods from our family garden, a very mid-western thing. I am a painter and had made Terry a small abstract painting of a Louisiana cypress grove, which he immediately put up on the wall. Terry told stories. We listened. Terry seemed to have a great attitude of just letting things roll. He was excited that we were there and took us around town to meet people and see this slice of Americana.  We had no idea of the turmoil or strife they were experiencing alone and together.

In mid April, we heard of the deaths of Terry and his son Eden via social media. We thought that perhaps they had been in an accident driving somewhere for the Easter holiday.  Within a day or two we found out that Terry was murdered by his son, Eden who then in-turn took his own life. The intimate details will remain unknown to us.Terry was my go to guy to call for making the Gumbo and I know that forever, red beans and rice will never be the same.

R.I.P Terry Dupuy, August 26, 1969 - April 12, 2020 

" Perhaps they are not stars, but rather openings in heaven where the love of our lost ones pour through and shines down upon us to let us know they are happy."

- Eskimo Proverb

California Teaser - March 2020

Joshua Tree has always been special and we have visited here once before. This time we booked into Jumbo Rocks, one of the campgrounds located in the park and it was a much more joyful experience. We were able to hike the Cholla Cactus Garden Loop and also the Skull Rock Loop. We drove by the Oasis of Mara which didn't look any better than when we saw it two years ago shortly after the arson fire.

Cholla Cactus Garden - Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree National Park

We have lights we use to keep the pack rats out of our engine area but one night while here we woke up to something snooping around under our hood. I stayed in the van due to my unlove of anything rodent and Lyle was hoping to lure it out of there by shining a bright flashlight in it's eyes and swearing at it. Nothing seemed to work so we started the engine and drove out of the camp and down the road at 4am. It either got away or died. Either scenario worked for me.

Jumbo Rocks Campground, Joshua Tree

Heading our of Joshua Tree National Park we passed through the town of Borego Springs. We were there before but it was so crowded with people trying to see the super-bloom of 2019 that we didn't stop. On this day it was a sleepy little town that was just hanging a very well curated plein art landscape show. Lots of inspiration there. We spent the night at Tamarisk Grove Campground. This place has an interesting history. It was a San Diego County prison camp which built roads in this once remote area.

Tamarisk Grove

We left there and headed to the Agua Caleiente County Park which is one of San Diego's regional parks. This place has three geothermal pools with the warmest one housed indoors. This is however what is considered a family park. It was by far the noisiest park we have been to, filled with families and children. In addition there was a Winnebago Travato club gathering which also contributed to the noise factor. A couple of Travato owners stopped by because our van is also a Ram Promaster and they were more than curious to see a custom build and compare it to their manufactured RV with the very hefty price tag.

After two days we are headed to San Diego its and easy drive, about 100 miles to the park that was to be our "home" for the next 21 days.  During our first week, it rained 4 out of 6 days. As news started to creep in regarding the pandemic we could see stress levels rising and it was then that we realized people were starting to horde food. We spent the weekend not really going anywhere and looking at what our options could be. We made the decision to return all the way back home to Minneapolis. We felt is was safer for us to ride this out in our own home instead traveling for 6 more weeks in a van with an unsure calendar of booked lodgings scattered in California, Nevada, Utah and Colorado.

We drove 2170 miles home over the next 4 days, eating our own food, loading up on non perishable foods, sleeping in rest stops and a small motel in Des Moines on our last night. On the day we returned home the camp we had been staying at in San Diego closed and evicted all the campers. Since that time many of the other places we had scheduled to visit either closed or remained open with no services. We made the right choice to return home. We are thankful for all the businesses that kindly relaxed their cancellation policies for reservations and refunded our money.

We are most definitely missing our view to the west. Missing sunsets and adventures. We are disappointed that our travels ended somewhat abruptly. It was definitely a California teaser. We missed our last two weeks in Sand Diego and our time scheduled for Death Valley National Park.

In addition we missed out on  planned time on BLM land near Lake Mead and time scheduled for hiking at Bryce Canyon, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, Utah. Lastly, we didn't get to Glenwood Springs and Denver. And so it goes...

Minneapolis is mostly gray and dreary but we made the right decision to end our travels. Spring will get here eventually. It's all humbling. For now we are safe at home which makes things a bit easier.

Wishing everyone we know, good health and happiness. Stay tuned for future adventures whenever and wherever that may be.

"The Future is unwritten." ~ Joe Strummer

Prickly Little Things - Arizona 2020

Like a Wildfire

You know you are in Arizona when you carry a pliers in your hiking pack. Don't touch anything here. There are lots of things that can hurt you or kill you. Prickly little things. Who knew there were poisonous centipedes? Who knew that desert rats want to build a nest in your engine and chew on your electrical wires? The list can go on but I am definitely having a big love affair with Arizona as it tries once again to steal my heart. All the sunshine, mountains, beautiful landscapes, wild spaces, breathtaking endless beauty and animated saguaro cactus. Almost every night an insane display of fiery sunsets and evening skies.

We really covered a lot of Arizona desert ground this time, went on some fantastic hikes and feel like we have discovered some new places. Catalina State Park is a repeat visit and we never manage to get a spot in the regular campground. We end up in the overflow but love it all the same. It's like an old wagon circle, people talk to each other and wait for the sunsets. The coyotes howl at night. It's just on the north edge of the Tucson city limits near the Oro Valley at the base of the Catalina Mountains.

Just a quick drive north to Oracle, Arizona is the Triangle L Ranch. It is by far my favorite art park anywhere. It is ever changing and the people that live and work there are as friendly as can be. It's a beautiful place to stroll around. It's only open on Saturdays and for special events but they have a sweet little bed and breakfast there so if you stay there you can walk around anytime you want.

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

Triangle L Ranch

We stayed at several other Arizona State parks. The parks are all great and seriously well managed. If you  don't mind sitting still, you will have what you need. We quickly realized here at Picacho Peak State Park that we needed to rearrange our itinerary and shortened our stay. This park was nestled between the peak and an interstate, not exactly comforting and there was no where to go. We did have one chilly afternoon in the little amphitheater with a singing cowboy and that was a pretty awesome but cold hour.

We also shortened our stay at Kartchner Caverns, visiting both Bisbee (again), Tombstone (again) and we went on a tour of the Karchner Cavern. They have a great visitor center and knowledgable docents. It has a pretty good story about the discovery of the caverns.

"Hoping to protect the cave from vandalism,  they kept the location a secret for fourteen years, deciding that the best way to preserve the cavern" ...
-- Read more about the discovery of the Caverns here: Katchner Caverns

The nearby mountain hid the sunsets here but the reflective light to the east was absolutely amazing.

Kartchner Caverns State Park

Kartchner Caverns State Park

We visited Organ Pipe National Monument two different times while in Arizona and I loved it so much I wrote a separate blog post all about our time there.
-- Read that post here: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument

We had more Tucson time while staying at Gilbert Ray just west of the city. What a great place to be. It is just down the road from the Old Tucson Studios which is an old western movie set turned gentle theme park. We heard cowboy stories, took in a can can show and watched a comedic stunt actor show. Then we ran into people we had met at a previous camp and witnessed the daily shoot out together. We spent the good part of a day there and it was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. So many westerns were filmed there so if you are a western film buff you will really like it. Even if you aren't it's amusing and fun.

Bath House at Old Tucson Studios

Me and the Guys at Old Tucson Studios

Gilbert Ray is adjacent to Saguaro National Park (west) which is for sure one of my favorite places on earth. It was here that we made a wrong turn one night and realized we were driving on the perfect alien abduction road. I am sure I would be a great location scout for the movies, if of course I had any interest in working. We drove the Bajada Loop Drive at the west park and on another day drove over Gates Pass and to the other side of Tucson to drive the Cactus Forest Drive at the Saguaro National Park (east park).

Perfect Alien Abduction Road (at night)

Gilbert Ray Pima County 

Our last stop in Arizona was to visit friends in Scottsdale, We took a lovely walk at Papago Park the surreal oasis and spent a few days near Apache Junction in the Superstition Mountains.

Papago Park, Scottsdale

Superstition Mountains, Apache Junction

"Then the wind blew cool through the pinyons on the rim. There was a sweet tang of cedar and sage on the air and that indefinable fragrance peculiar to the canyon country of Arizona."  ~Zane Grey

Hasta la proxima vez / Until next time
Adios Arizona

Next Stop: Joshua Tree

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument - 2020

The Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument is a true desert experience. It is located along the Arizona Mexico border in south western Arizona and it part of the Sonoran Desert. The Sonoran Desert is a North American desert which covers large parts of the Southwestern United States in Arizona and California and Northwestern Mexico in Sonora, and Baja California Sur. It is the hottest desert in Mexico. It is the greenest desert in the world. This portion of the desert is designated as a National Monument and was established to protect this unique species of cactus. The blooms open in summer and are pollinated by the nectar-feeding Long-nosed Bat. Beautiful and unique this is the farthest north region in which these cactus can survive. 

 

Organ Pipe Cactus

The Sonoran Desert has five seasons, dry summer, summer monsoon, fall, winter (rainy) and spring. Abundant wildlife thrives here and includes many species of reptiles, birds, kit fox, deer, bobcat, cougar and coyote. There are big blue skies, blazing orange sunsets and beautiful silence. This is a dark sky community and there are so many stars. There are other surprises too in this incredible land and we were happy to stumble on this organ pipe cactus cristate. The cristate is a somewhat rare mutation which also appears in other species of cactus.

Cristate Organ Pipe Cactus

The Ocotillo has spines on woody stems and basically looks rather dead most of the year. It's not technically a cactus but it looks like one and is an incredibly drought tolerant plant that you do not want to touch. It is a beautiful contrast to the other desert plants with its skinny tall stems. In the spring when it blooms, it has flame-shaped orange-red flower clusters atop each long thin stem. 

Ocotillo

To say that Arizona sunsets are the best is an understatement. They win hands down for consistently providing endless variety and evening entertainment. The dry desert conditions combined with upper-level clouds creates amazing shows of iridescent pink, orange and purple hues. We were rarely disappointed. 

We drove the Ajo Mountain Scenic Loop, stopping along the way and reading the road guide. This scenic drive crosses the Diablo Mountains, passes along the base of the Ajo Mountains and crosses the Sonoyta Valley. 

Ajo Mountain Scenic Drive

We attended several ranger programs. One about the history of places within the park. Another one about coyotes (song dogs) and another one about stargazing. 

Super Moon

We hiked the loop around the camp several times and also hiked the Victoria Mine Trail twice, but, not on the same day. Rangers here have one of their scheduled days as a hiking day so often we would pass a Ranger on the trail. 

When we first arrived, I was concerned, we would stumble on distressed people making illegal crossings. There were signs posted to alert us. We did not see anyone, but, it's not entirely uncommon. Customs and Border Patrol (CBP) are diligent here and busy. You could see where the land was in need of restoration due to the destruction of illegal crossings. There were lots of CPB patrols, roadside checkpoints and helicopter patrols.

We also drove a portion of the Puerto Blanco Road which runs along the international border where the wall is being built. It was quite an emotional experience. When you see the harshness of this environment, how vast it all is, you see an unforgiving land. I think about the people who traffic others with a somewhat false hope of helping them cross the border. Everything out there can hurt you and there are many things that can kill you. I think about distressed people, trying to flee their homeland for what they hope is a better life. I look at this terrain and see how difficult it would be to traverse this unforgiving land. I believe they must be so desperate they are willing to die just for the chance. I think about how humanitarian aid has become a crime and how human rights advocates have carried gallons of water into remote areas of the Sonoran desert and been arrested. 

Mural, Ajo, Arizona

On a happier note, this was definitely one of my favorite places while we were on the road. In fact we loved it so much we returned to for a second time while in Arizona. Pristine beauty and incredible silence. It was here at the Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument that we both earned our Desert Ranger Patch. I've always been an advocate and a conservationist and it was a fun and interesting exercise. We made our way through the workbook, completed the requirements and pledged to preserve and protect the National Parks and Monuments.

How incredibly blessed we are to have the life we have and to get to see so many unique and beautiful places. Our new van has made things so much easier. Travel makes me happy and I intend to do more of it for as long as I can.

"If you don't die of thirst, there are blessings in the desert. You can be pulled into limitlessness, which we all yearn for, or you can do the beauty of minutiae, the scrimshaw of tiny and precise. The sky is your ocean, and the crystal silence will uplift you like great gospel music, or Neil Young." - Anne Lamott

Laissez les bon temps rouler - New Orleans 2019

Big Chief Monk Boudreaux

Laissez les bon temps rouler” (lay-ZEH leh BAWN taw ROO-leh)
Let the good times roll... 

New Orleans is one of a kind. It is steeped in history and traditions like no other City in the United States. There is so much more here than the French Quarter of which I would bet that most visitors rarely get out of. Great museums, parks and culture. 

How can one not be intrigued by the tradition of the Mardi Gras Indians? The Mardi Gras Indians came about because cultural separation did not include the black neighborhoods in Mardi Gras celebrations. The Mardi Gras Indians named themselves after Native American indians to pay them respect for their helped and accepted slaves into their society when they made a break for freedom. Their krewes are named after imaginary Indian tribes according to the streets of their ward or gang. Their costumes are amazing and the craft work that goes into them astounds me. 

We have spoiled ourselves. We are at the beginning of the longest road trip we have ever been on. We started out our journey by renting half of a double shotgun home in the uptown area of New Orleans. It's not exactly living in a van just quite yet but more Van-in-the-city. I just keep saying it's all good and we have plenty of camping in our van coming up over the next few months.

Our extended stay in this city has allowed us to drink in the culture and see more than what you would do on a long weekend. We have both been here a few times before but this time is more close up. We are perhaps living like locals. We have discovered great urban walks, fun music venues and cozy little lunch spots. We also have great direction from my extensive research of things to do and we have friends in town that are leading us to places we would have never found on our own. It's not exactly budget friendly fun but we hardly missing a thing and it some how balances all out. 

There is great music all around this city. Something for everyone. You really can't go wrong with attending the monthly Fa Do Do at  the legendary Tipatina's with Bruce Draigrepont. He is a fantastic front man and plays those dance tunes like no one else. What a fantastic night with a great band. It doesn't even matter if you can't or won't dance, the music is fantastic. He is integral to the history of Tipatina's and a nice guy too that took time at the end of the gig to talk to us for a few minutes. 

Bruce Draigrepont

The Iguanas at the Circle Bar pretty much every Wednesday is an amazing treat. It's the most intimate setting just like someone's living room and they are indeed world class. With two multi instrumentalist and languages in English and Spanish, I was in tiny venue heaven.

The Iguanas

Chubby Carrier Rock n Bowl

We looked for the Tree of Life in Audubon Park more than once and when we found it we realized we had just been driving by it repeatedly. So many old and large live oaks all around and in this park. Once we got out of the van we could see why it is so special. They think this one is about 300 years old. There are so many amazing trees in Audubon Park but this one clearly deserves special attention. 

Tree of Life - Audubon Park

Another great place to take a walk is the Bestoff Sculpture Garden at City Park adjacent to the New Orleans Museum of Art. It's not only free it has a great mix of 20th Century Sculptures. It's a beautiful setting with several places to rest and enjoy the surroundings. We loved it and went there twice. 

Studio BE. Absolute Truth and Beauty. What an extraordinary exhibition by Brandon "B-mike " Odums, artist, activist and mentor. The pieces reflect the impact of Katrina on the community, the Black experience, history and the Civil Rights Movement. Very very powerful social justice statement. It is probably one of the most moving exhibits I have seen in quite some time. Emotional. Brilliant. 

We made it to Grand Isle, the mouth of the Mississippi and that was a great place to spend the day. It's kind of off season here so we basically had the place to ourselves. Who doesn't love a deserted beach stroll?

We went to the Garyville Louisiana Levee along the Mississippi River to see the 45 foot Alligator Bonfire but I was at the mercy of my friends and they didn't want to wait the 15 minutes before they lit it up. We started driving north toward Gramercy because there were more fires there, the possibility of food and drink but the traffic got so crazy there was a quick U-turn and our adventure ended without climax. I did see a few stray fireworks over the distant levee from the backseat window of the car. The tradition of the fires is strong along the levee to light the way for Papa Noel. .

We attended the Big Nine Second Line Parade and walked several miles along side the parade. I loved seeing people with a connection to their club, neighborhood, city or traditions, something I do not feel apart of in my own home city. Fantastic display of home made costumes, feathers and lively steppers. Brass bands and decorated floats. We ended up visiting the St. Roch Market and stopping in for a snack. It was a nice renovation of the old market place oddly upscale for the neighborhood, cold and loud inside. We walked back through the neighborhood and looked at all the houses, most of which in this neighborhood were needing a some TLC but some were darling little gems.

A week later we had the honor of meeting Ronald Lewis, culture bearer who curates a cultural museum which is based on his participation in the culture of the Mardi Gras Indians, Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs and the skull and bones gangs. His work preserves and shares the culture and passes on the knowledge and traditions for the next generations. Ronald is president of the Big Nine Social Aid and Pleasure Club, former Council Chief of the Choctaw Hunters, former King of Krewe de Vieux, a lifelong resident of the Lower Ninth Ward, survivor of the two worst hurricanes in US history, Betsy in '65 and Katrina in 2005.

Update: Sadly Ronald passed away on March 20 due to complication from diabetes and other medical conditions. He will be surely missed by all those whose lives he touched. He was an amazing spirit, a beautiful light. I am especially honored to have met him. 

We entered the nondescript building with hardly a sign, took a number and waited at Domalise's for a while to order up our po-boy sandwiches. While we were waiting we met a couple were thought were just typical football fans and it ended up one was a Jazz guitarist and the other a second chair violinist for the Memphis Orchestra. So never judge a book by its cover. Be nice to people. They were delightful and we ended up sitting with them and eventually ordering and eating our po-boys 

Revellion Dinner at Brigsten's was a real budget buster. You can catch my honest review on Trip Advisor. As we entered the creole cottage there was a magazine photographer and he asked us if we would be willing to be in the shoot. He then came indoors to our table and took some photos as we dined. We then were asked to sign a release for our images to be used in the Eating Well Magazine. Be on the lookout for me in an upcoming issue of Eating Well Magazine, because I am pretty sure that my curly hair will appear in one of those photos! The one where my smoked salmon toast point broke apart when I bit into it. 

The Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve is just 25 minutes from New Orleans and it is like another world. The Park has a beautiful boardwalk trail that goes through the bayou. On property nearby were were booked on a swamp tour where we were able to get out into the channel and see marshes, swamps and alligators. 

Mardi Gras World is an insanely huge warehouse and artistic building space. They build and created floats for their clients. We were able to see the artists working in different studios. There were also countless props in storage from previous Mardi Gras float builds. 

We visited the Whitney Plantation which is the only plantation museum in Louisiana with an exclusive focus on the lives of enslaved people. Expertly presented with highly knowledgeable docents. There are many memorials and restored buildings on the sugar plantation property. Remembrances for those that built and worked this property. Our guide provided many fantastic examples of how the 1% has always and continues to create a culture which will always create ways to divide the people against themselves. Through their research they have developed some excellent educational materials that can be used with curriculum in the schools. 
Please read more about it here: https://www.whitneyplantation.org/

What an amazing time we have had. Oddly we are leaving right as the Mardi Gras season begins, Twelfth Night. We say good bye to our fake New Orleans home and neighborhood knowing that New Orleans will not disappear. It's spirit is strong. It's people proud. There are some amazing and lovable characters here in this community that eats, dances, hugs, makes music, parades, laughs, lives large and is always talking about the next meal. 

"Just relax, darlin'. This is the Big Easy. Folks have a certain way o' doin'things down here. 
~ Remi McSwain.

Next Stop: Houston